Remnant

No Dart FBA for Kay

2011-12-22T22:09:00.001-05:00

Pattern piece altered in 3 areas: Front neckline, bust, front center hemline.

I recommend using Pamela’s Patterns Perfect T for a starting point. Her pattern is made for us mature women – the shoulder is forward and sloped (I think those are the changes she uses for her basic patterns). Her techniques are basic and I’ve made a ton of these t’s with all sorts of necklines and sleeve length (including sleeveless).

For my former shape (since reduced) I added 1 inch at the neckline and center front hemline for this no-dart technique.

I will have to retrace the pattern and figure out how to fit my new shape (this is a SWAP goal). My former shape required a 1 3/4 inch spread when doing a traditional Y shape FBA. I think my new shape requires a 3/4 inch spread (not as reduced as I requested, evidently!). I had this surgery in June and I am still unable to wear a traditional b r a – I’m still wearing a sport’s b r a and will be for quite a few more months. Therefore, I’ve been told, I have a uniboob. Sigh. (Mothers!) And I’m quite self-conscious in posting photos. What is still healing are the underlying muscles – there is no way I can even wear a larger size band for 5 minutes. So I have no idea what my final size will be but I’m thinking a D cup based on my latest attempt at trying on b r a’s.

More info than you requested, but this is about making clothing to fit our unique shapes and the challenges thereof.

Thread Troubles and Green Fake Velvet Cardboard Vest

2011-12-21T23:14:00.001-05:00

This keeps happening to me.

With different threads.

Different machines.

Sometimes near the needle. Sometimes near the tension knob.

And NOT when I’ve just started sewing with a newly threaded needle. Nope. I can be sewing along for many seams until this nest forms.

And ignore Nora’s dustiness. I polish her up and oil her well between uses. I absolutely love her…but her bobbin case gave me fits today! The bobbin thread kept coming out of the little slot. Think I ought to tighten it?

Advice?

Meanwhile, my Koos Coat is growing on me. :) I made a simple A-line skirt out of the red/grey to wear with it. It took me about an hour – no waistband, only elastic – I’ll have to show you what I did. Fast and easy and I think it will be very comfortable. And I made a Loes Hinse Bolero jacket today which still needs a final pressing. I’ll photo those in the next few days hopefully…tomorrow is errands and packing before the long drive to DC on Friday.

Here is the olive green fake velvet cardboard vest I made a couple of weeks ago. Really awful stuff. Don’t know what I was thinking.

Pocket (love these pockets) and button from my wonderful button stash. It’s not a large stash, necessarily, but I have the cutest buttons. I think my grandmother must have cut off every button before getting rid of a garment. I’ll post a photo of my glass jars one day.

Not one raw edge, she says smugly.

This was meant to be a jacket for my 2012 SWAP. However, just before inserting the sleeves, I realized I’d never wear a green fake velvet jacket that feels like cardboard. But I might wear it if it were a vest.

See? Comfy.Well, comfier than if it were a jacket. The hem is wonky, so that will need to be fixed.

And see this photo?

Well, lesson learned and filed away. When performing a sway back, I need to add the length BACK at the hem. Right? Who knew. I missed reading – or remembering – that part of the sway back instructions. So, I’m going to fix this whole hem, which won’t take me too long. I think I’ll bring this project to DC with me. I have JUST enough olive green thread left. I hope.

And totally not styled. I’ll wear with a nicer top and scarf and whatnot.

Doesn’t look too bad from the back except that I over compensated for the sway back thing on this square cardboard-like jacket.

But what do those wrinkles tell me? I already performed a sloping shoulder adjustment – think I need more? Or a broad back (which I did prior to my surgery but thought I wouldn’t need any longer. Maybe I do?)

And, yes, this means I need a substitute fabric for my SWAP. G Street anyone????

Yeah yeah. Hush with the spoiled dog thing. He NEEDED picked up. Doesn’t he always?

Koos Coat Final

2011-12-20T17:39:00.001-05:00

Darn! The rear view is blurred. And it has gotten too dark outside to retake.

Sleeves and before welts.

Welts. Before adding the pocket lining.

After the pocket – straightens up the edges nicely. Hmmm….looking at the photo, the top welt looks wonky, but in reality, it is fine.

I ended up not binding the outside edge. I cut off an inch or so all around the perimeter, and cut out the lining from the hem allowance. I turned a bit more than an inch for the hem. Before topstitching the hem, I turned the raw edge in 1/2 inch.

My daughter thinks it’s too much in the front. I agree. I think it would have been better if I had not used spray adhesive on the lining. The glue changed the hand, making the lining – well – crinkly feeling.

My husband, on the other hand, thinks it is fine.

I could have cut a size extra-small all around rather than just in the neck/arm area where I cut a size small. According to the pattern measurements, I should have cut a medium. No. Extra small.

What do you think? Wear this when visiting family in DC for the holidays? Or opt out.

Koos Coat: Auditioning Binding

2011-12-19T13:09:00.001-05:00

Before I journal the construction details for today (thus far, set in sleeves, finished neckline), I need to audition binding for the outer edge of the coat.

Above is the same lightweight binding I used between fabrics and what I plan to use for the pocket welts. No. Too much of the same. I don’t think the light weight would give the needed heft at the hem.

I like this but it would use up what I have if I have to cut a chunk on the bias. I’d not be able to make a skirt. And I want a skirt. What do I want more? This for the binding or a skirt? Decision: skirt.

I can’t use the red/grey because of the ravel factor. It would need interfaced and that would defeat the bias purpose. The photo below shows the interior of the jacket (giving you a sneak preview of the finished interior) – notice the black interfacing I used on the red/grey. The interfacing is of such a nice quality that I did not have to line that piece as I had thought would be necessary.

I used the subtle grey stripe (under the red above) for sleeves. I don’t want to use it for binding as well. It is my least favorite fabric in the whole coat. It makes a great sleeve as it is very soft and of medium weight. Plus the stripe shows off the unusual characteristics of the twisted sleeve pattern. I’ll show you that later.

Which leaves me with the black. I’m leaning towards this because I chose the black for the outer piece of the coat and using this will keep the overall look as it now stands. It’s of a good weight to weigh the hem, it isn’t too thick (like the red/grey or black/white plaid). I think I have enough that I could still make a pencil skirt.

[Note: See the little bit of unsecured binding in the left photo above? There are little fiddly bits like this which need to be hand-stitched and fixed even though I went slow slow slowly on the binding stitching. Some pieces just will not bow to submission!]

There is time to weigh in with your opinion (please!). I’m heading off to make the pockets. I imagine that will take me the afternoon to complete between loads of laundry and whatnot.

Koos Construction – Day 2

2011-12-18T22:31:00.001-05:00

Plus the sleeves are sewn (they have a spiral seamline) and one sleeve has been inserted. The other sleeve was fiddly so I took that as a sign that I was too tired to do more tonight. The difficult armscye is the one Murphy is sitting on – see the plaid on the bias? It is all stretched out. I need to press it back into shape and top stitch. Notice that the other armscye has different fabrication and, therefore, was much easier to work with.

Construction photo:

I am using Koos method of construction – this is the right side. I trimmed the seam allowanced, pressed open and laid the bias tape on top. It wasn’t the best option. I progressed to pressing the seams in one direction and then laying the bias. That was better

But the best method was to press open and stitch very close to the seam (1/8 inch) and then trim before laying the bias. This is the method I used for the bottom bias (between plaid and black dots).

I have yet to: Set in the second sleeve. Welt pockets. Neck line. Trim off 5/8 from outside edge, finishing bias. Hem sleeves.

Question: If I were to make a skirt to match – which fabric should I choose???? I have enough of most everything (except, perhaps, the solid red Shetland wool).

Koos Coat – Construction Day 1

2011-12-17T22:07:00.001-05:00

Taking this slow and steady.

For me, that means I do a bit and walk away. Do chores. Run errands. Cook a meal. Visit with my daughter home from college and my husband who has the next week off work. This is not one of those projects where I can obsess and work till the wee hours of the morning.

Yesterday: I cut and constructed a size medium muslin. I did not petite it. My usual petite is one inch above bust plus one inch above the waist. I determined that I would cut a size extra-small at the shoulders and a medium elsewhere. Holding my breath that this is a good fix to the armscye issues on the muslin – they were too large and needed to be cut much higher. I think it will be fine.

Today’s advancements include:

1. Deciding to rearrange the order of fabrics. I will use the black speckles as the main body rather than the red/grey. The red/grey does not have much body. I think it would be great for a one-layer jacket, but not quite suitable as the base of this construction because there will be NO sew-on or ironed on interfacing used. We’ll see it in the piecing as the days progress.

2. I cut, sewed, folded the bias tape. Pain in the tuchas (!) as the wool did not want to keep a crease. I ought to take a photo of my process: using one of those 1/2 inch bias turners PLUS about 5 or 6 pins in the ironing board to keep the folds in place while drying to set. I hope I don’t have to fiddle with it too much once I start using it.

3. I ran out to our town’s little quilting shop to be met with a sign on the door: Jeannine and her husband Jean are both in a nursing home and the shop may never reopen. I plan to pay them a visit tomorrow. I learned quite a bit from Jean about machine repair. The loss of this shop will be a great loss. In order to complete my errand, I needed to venture to the next town to Walmart. The week before Christmas. I had quite a mental debate with myself about the greater need – but forged on singing along with my radio’s Christmas carols. Thankfully, it was just 10am so that the crowds had not yet descended, though the parking lot was jam packed. There was no line at the registers as I paid for my spray fabric adhesive.

4. Attempted to spray adhesive on the facing fabric (the silky leopard print) to stick on the wool, but it was too windy outside (and cold!) and the fabric kept blowing away. Rethinking options, we shuffled cars so that we could use the garage. The adhesive didn’t end up sticking very well – we’re debating whether the cold has anything to do with it, or the time it took to fiddle with the silky facing fabric in order to place it properly onto the wool. (The “we” is my hubby.)

5. Pinned the wrong side of the facing to the wrong side of the wool, cut a wide margin around the pattern pieces, traced the pattern with chalk and pen, then ran a couple of lines of free form quilting to adhere them permanently.

6. I re-attached the paper pattern to the quilted piece to cut more precisely….remembering to place the pattern face down on this one layered piece.

All of this quilting of facings is because I do not plan to line the coat. I’m following Koos’ methods.

Mental note: Cut off the 5/8 inch seam allowance on the outer edge before placing the final bias tape. I’m leaving it for now – to allow this seam allowance to ravel during the construction and manipulation of the coat.

This is what I accomplished thus far:

Did you notice that the facing doesn’t complete the circle? I don’t know why I opted this – I think I felt it unnecessary to have the facing along the bottom back. Hopefully this will be a good decision.

Tomorrow: Sew these pieces together and start construction of the basic coat.

I’m still undecided about what to use for outer-edge bias and for the sleeves. I have options but I’m not thrilled with any of them.

I’ll take more photos tomorrow of the process. I forgot about taking photos till this evening and missed recording some interesting details.

More Koos Fabric Planning

2011-12-14T22:17:00.001-05:00

I never claimed to be an artist. This jacket is a puzzle, isn’t it? I needed some way to visualize it in order to piece it.

Original plan below:

The problem with the above plan was that some of the fabrics weren’t coat quality not to mention a tad monochromatic.

I found the following two at Fabric Mart last week and was quite pleased when they arrived today.

The newest plan is as follows:

Is that a tad blurred? Or is it my sleep deprived eyes?
The top fabric will be the bias – that’s the reason it is shown on the diagonal. The bottom red/grey will be the main fabric – on the front it is the collar and center front, around to the bottom fabric in the back. The order of the rest are as stacked, top to bottom, with each separated by the diagonal grey stripe bias.

My color key – and a second view which I adjusted for color of the fabric.

I’m still having a difficult time photographing a true color for the red Shetland wool – the below gives you a good idea of the wool textures.

I have decided that I will not be lining the coat. I’ll follow suggestions in Koos’ book for finishing seams. I have to decide what to do for a facing. Perhaps I’ll just let the reverse side of the red/grey provide the facing contrast (it’s mostly black).

At any rate, I spent the evening cutting the pattern pieces to a size medium – but not cutting where the small was on the outside margin because I have yet to make a muslin and I’m not sure about the size. I hear it runs big. I’ll have to re-trim the pattern once I come up with a proper size. Yes, I’m cutting into the tissue. I doubt I’ll make a second of these coats any time soon. Besides, tracing these pieces is quite daunting! Have you seen them????

I’ll make the muslin out of the lining pieces which I won’t be using on the final coat. At least I won’t need to piece the puzzle together just to make a muslin. I’m really looking forward to starting this process tomorrow, except my daughter is coming home for winter break sometime tomorrow and I’m determined to bake some cookies for her, have Sangria in the frig chilling for her, and, of course, a home cooked dinner of oven breaded chicken and cheesy cauliflower.

Coordinating Blue Wools

2011-12-14T21:40:00.001-05:00

Just wow.

Fabric Mart.

The floral plaid is a Marc Jacobs angora. Soft and beautiful. I have one yard.

The other is Shetland wool, a bit stiff.

How to coordinate these two will be a creative process.

One option is to make the floral plaid a skirt and the denim a jacket.

Or I can make the floral plaid a comfy jacket or vest and use the denim as an embellishment of sorts…binding, pockets, etc. I could also make a matching skirt of the denim.

I’ll let it simmer until I know.

Simple Tool Used to Set Seam Allowances

2011-12-08T12:12:00.001-05:00

How many times do we change the size of a seam allowance or stitching line in the making of a garment? It’s not too much of a problem if your machine comes with an engraved needle plate, but Necchi machines do not.

My solution is this Quilter’s Gauge by Dritz.

Simply slip it under your presser foot.

Slip the needle through the appropriate measurement. (I simply eyeball it.) And set your metal gauge next to the edge.

Viola! Accurate seam allowance in a jiffy.

My only complaint with this tool is that it does not have 3/8 inch, which I frequently use when sewing knits. I mark 3/8” with a piece of tape – which I took off for the sake of the photo above.

I’ve never seen this tool listed on anyone’s “notions I can’t live without” lists. But it certainly tops mine. Do you use an unusual notion on a frequent basis?

Cooking the Koos Coat

2011-12-07T11:07:00.001-05:00

I received a lovely note from a dear gal who doesn’t like to make herself known publicly on the blogs. She is in the process of making the Koos coat with a sewing buddy (how fun to have a sewing buddy!) and offered some welcome advice.

In response to my inquiry regarding Koos’ method of construction, she pointed me to the book Koos Couture and Collage by Linda Chang Teufel, available for $15 on Linda’s rwebpage, Dragon Threads. Before constructing the coat, I’m going to read this book, so sewing will have to wait. I’m not convinced flat felled seams are necessary, especially at the shoulders. There has to be a better way.

My pattern finally arrived and I’ve given it a once over. I’m just a tad intimidated. :) I think I’ll make a one-layer, one-color coat to start. In other words, I’ll follow the example of my anonymous friend and make a coat from the lining. I have a couple of lengths in just the right weight and length.

That blue is a bit bright but I can imagine wearing with black jeans.

Below is a length of wool – it’s a bit meh. I’ve never loved it. The real color is a bit more bright – with yellow tone. I imagine it will be a dream to sew with.

The below fabrics are the ones I’m mulling over for the layered coat.

I found the red/grey just last week at Hancock’s on 40% off sale. It is quite ravely and will be a nightmare, I’m sure! I’m thinking of interfacing with a light weight knit interfacing to make it easier to handle.

Next in the stack is this beautiful piece of Merino wool with a subtle tan stripe.

I realize I have a problem with each of the other fabrics – they are either too light weight or have stretch.

The below piece has black/white threads, forming a perfectly neutral grey. The problem is the weight. I’d have to interface with a heavy interfacing, changing the original hand a bit. I don’t know if that works or if there would be too much of a difference in heft to make it work with the red/grey.

This piece I LOVE.

But it stretches.

Bah! Would interfacing and/or underlining work?

The next one – click on it to increase the size so you can see the texture – is wonderful. But light. I could use it for the binding.

Or I could use this light weight stripe for the binding, which is the direction I’m leaning.

Once again, a lovely stack of possibilities but with issues.

Another idea is to add another bit of color.

The coral/red actually blends quite nice in real life – if I don’t use them directly next to each other. The color below is more true. I only have a yard of this Shetland wool which came to me in a Fabric Mart bundle.

Or, thinking, ditch the red/grey bulky fabric entirely and go with the lighter weights.

Meanwhile, while I await the arrival of the Koos book, I think I’ll pull out another coat project. In the blue. That blue is speaking to me today.

Vogue 2988. Perhaps.

Or Kwik Sew 3095 which I’ve chosen for my SWAP. I think this is a sleeper pattern. I have been drawn to this pattern for quite some time. I could start the fitting process today.

Do you ever feel like flipping a coin to help decide what to do????

Koos Coat: What is taking so long?

2011-12-05T23:00:00.001-05:00

It has been a week since I ordered this pattern from BMV. The status has read “shipped” since Wednesday.

But perhaps the wait will be worth it, especially since another blogger, Jilly Be Joyful, is currently making the coat and is taking the time to blog her observations. I’m finding her details and her recommendations very helpful.

One of her recommendations about using wool of similar weight has altered my fabric choices. I’ll take photos of fabrics tomorrow and will discuss what I want to use, why I may not use some, and a question about a color choice.’

Another recommendation, mental note: lower the height of the collar.

Meanwhile, I have a few questions regarding the construction:

1. Can this coat be made without the flat felled seams?

2. Could the inner layer, which I'd probably never wear on the outside, be treated more as a lining, therefore eliminating the need to flat fell all these seams?

3. Furthermore, I've read a few blogs which report that the construction method Koos uses differs from the printed Vogue instructions. I'm wondering if anyone knows how he recommends constructing the coat. I’m thinking the sleeve construction is where the major construction differences might lie.

Thank you, Jilly Be, for forging the way!

A Learning Curve: Simplicity 2155, View D

2011-12-04T10:47:00.001-05:00

Notes:

I chose this pattern for the shoulder princess seams.

As you can see, I did not add the collar or make the belt. I wanted to try one of Sandra Betzina’s methods for lining and opted to omit the collar in order to do that.

I added bound buttonholes.

I cut size 14 at shoulders and bust, size 16 at hips.

I made two petite adjustments of 1 inch each: mid-armholes and at a couple inches above the waist.

Problems:

I forgot to scoop out the armscye after the petite adjustment so they are tight. It should be easy enough to reopen the hand-sewing on the lining to fix that. I followed Betzina’s advice to remove the gaposis on the front and back armscye (staystitch the area, putting your finger behind the foot to draw up the fabric).

I did not perform a broad back adjustment and the shoulder blade area feels tight. Maybe increasing the size of the armscye will help that issue a bit.

My bound buttonholes are sloppy. I think they are sloppy because I followed a technique in Sandra Betzina’s Power Sewing which has the buttonholes bound in a double layer with the lining. That is too bulky

Now I know.

On the inside of the garment, Sandra sews 1/4 inch around the button hole (rather than in the ditch) and then cuts the remaining patch away, leaving the edge raw. I did not want the top stitching so I turned in the raw edges of the patch and slip stitched. They look awful.

But from the outside, even though they are wonky, the striped binding adds a needed pop to the bland grey.

I was hoping this would be a bit more loose fitting, less fitted.

Techniques:

Bound button holes.

Princess seams. I’ve made relatively few. I chose this pattern because this vest has princess seams that go to the shoulder rather than the armscye. I hope to tweak this pattern to give me a more loose fitting garment that can be used for many fabrications and embellishments, with or without a lining.

The lining method has you insert one lined piece into another and sew through all four layers at shoulder seam and at side seam. Conclusion: I do not like this method, at least, not on heavy garments. No matter how much I tweaked, I could not get the edge points to line up perfectly.

The above side edge matched fairly well, but the one below not at all.

So, I’m concluding that this grey wool vest is far from perfect but perfectly wearable. I didn’t intend for it to be a show-stopper so I am not bothered by the errors. It will be fine for a bit of warmth around the house or a quick trip to the store. Perhaps we’ll call this a wearable muslin.

Remnant’s Rockin’ SWAP 2012

2011-11-28T10:09:00.001-05:00

My Sewing with a Plan for 2012 is coming together. I have chosen all my fabrics and a few of the patterns. I’m calling this my Rockin’ SWAP because of the textured earth-tone fabrics in olive, gold, brown and winter-white.

The primary 7 garments I will be sewing:

1. Trousers - possibly Cutting Design’s One-Seam or Style Arc’s Linda.

A brown mystery fabric. Slight stretch.

2. Skirt – Pamela Pattern’s Magic Pencil Skirt

A beautiful knitty knit fabric.

3. T-Shirt – Paco Peralta’s Drape

A very light weight ribbed/slubbed knit.

4. Blouse – This is yet to be determined. There are so many styles I want to try, yet I must find one I wish to become a TNT (tried and true) according to SWAP rules.

Slight stretch. Beautiful tones.

5. Jacket – Loes Hinse Zipper

Fairly light weight, warm, great drape.

6. Coat – Kwik Sew 3095 (a boxy looking coat, but I like my coats loose fitting rather than tight and constricting)

Green Corduroy. Thick. Maybe too stiff.

7. Over Coat – possibly Burda 7587 (a swing coat)

Wool. Thick. Love.

The 4 garments, which according to this year’s SWAP rules, I must repeat with the same or a different pattern:

8. Skirt

Stretch.

9. Blouse

Lovely. Just wait and see.

10. Jacket

Beautiful stretch velvet. Kind of furry.

11. Coat

Stretch velvet. Kind of stiff.

I will wait to determine whether to repeat the first pattern by how much I like the first choice once it is made up and worn. If I like it, if I determine I want to have a second in a different fabrication, I will repeat it, otherwise, I have plenty to choose from and will attempt a second style.

I had a relatively easy time choosing fabrics as I have discovered I purchase quite a few in this color-way. I love these dark, deep tones. Of course, as the weeks and months progress, I reserve the right to exchange a current fabric or pattern for another, but as it stands today, I love these choices. There is enough pattern to make it interesting, enough texture to make it fun and enough styles to make it challenging. Perhaps I will add a bit of embellishment as my heart leads, perhaps with some decorative stitching using the cams on my SuperNova and using a few seed beads. Ideas are ruminating.

According to SWAP rules, I can start fitting muslins now and can even complete 2 garments prior to the Dec 26 start date. YAY! Eleven well-fitted garments seems a mighty large task to complete by April 30. But the goal is to make future sewing more rewarding by having these well-fitted, TNT’s at hand. The effort will have long-lasting reward.

But I do have to say….I’m sorely tempted to hold off on the SWAP sewing in order to make this Koos Coat…

I’ve chosen tentative fabrics, in grey tones and a wee spot of red. My fabrics aren’t as wonderful as those pictured, but one must work within one’s budget, darn it all. My patterns are much more subdued, and perhaps that fits my style a bit better anyway.

Murphy on Wheels – only slightly sewing-related

2011-11-22T22:47:00.001-05:00

I don’t think I’ve properly introduced Murphy.

Murphy is a Chiweenie. If you Google “Chiweenie” you will see all sorts of oddities. A Chiweenie, if you haven’t quite gotten there yet, is Chiuaua plus Dacshund. Murphy’s mother was a Teacup Chiuaua and his father a mini-Dacshund.

He’s quite a pathetic pooch.

My day trip to the Garment District necessitated bringing Murphy as the hotel would not allow him to remain at the hotel unescorted so I had to bring him with me on the train into the city but I could not carry him all day – he’s just a tad too heavy at 12 pounds. Not being used to crowds of feet, keeping him on a leash all day was not going to work for him.

My only option, other than staying close to the hotel, was this suitcase/briefcase on wheels (that’s my daughter pulling Murphy).

Murphy has morphed me into a crazy dog woman.

Upgrading Patterns

2011-11-16T10:51:00.001-05:00

When I started sewing, I aimed for inexpensive fabric and simple patterns. I had fitting issues (a full bust) which I needed to learn to accommodate. Simple patterns equaled successful patterns. I’ve rarely had a wadder (something which is only good to be wadded up and tossed out) but, even so, I didn’t want to learn and experiment on costly fabrics.

Today I am tempted by seriously expensive wools. Just saying. Wools – sigh – love.

I managed to take away quite a haul of very lovely fabrics from G Street’s back wall a couple of weeks ago. After laundering, I realize just how good these pieces are. I’m hoping to build my SWAP for this year [11 well-fitted garments resulting in TNT’s – or tried-and-true patterns] around these G Street pieces. However, I have decided that in order to “make it work” I’ll need a few extra filler pieces – non-G Street back wall finds – and some newer patterns.

I have a new favorite ETSY fabric shop, FabricsandTrimmings. I hesitate to post this shop here but you’ll promise to keep my favorite pieces available to me for purchase, won’t you? I found a few lovelies last night:

Brown and Black Tweedy Wool with Poly Knit Fabric--One Yard. Skirt.

Cotton and Lycra (2%) Fabric 60" Wide. Nothing better than cotton with a wee bit of stretch for comfort.

And I snatched the last two yards of:

“Winter white sweatery wool.” Originally, I bought the last yard listed, then received notification that a second yard was available and that I could have it for half price. Great customer service!

Those three pieces will make a lovely outfit, don’t you think? The colors – the browns and rusts are colors I love to wear. And I hope the wool is more sweatery than wool because I’d love something very cozy to wrap me – I hope I can make something unlined so the warm cuddle is maximized.

I also was so tempted by Spain’s Paco Peralta’s Cowl Neck top. He hand draws every pattern. This man is an artisan and I greatly admire his handiwork.

Paco’s Jacket – has intrigued me from the first time I saw it months ago. Yet I knew my skills were not up to attempting it. …look here as well for a unique fabric application. Love it!!!

J’adore the in-seam button hole and flattering seam placement.

I decided I will attempt this jacket after the first of the year. I do not think Paco encloses directions so I will need to rely upon books and generous blogsters who post tutorials and advice, as well, of course, upon the sewists at Stitcher’s Guild. I think Paco has posted a photo tutorial for construction tips.

I took advantage of Paco’s bundled offer which included his Half-Circle Skirt which gets rave reviews from those who have made it. I probably won’t include it in my SWAP – but my SWAP plans have only begun to marinate thus far, so we’ll see what happens.

Paco demonstrates the three pieces together as “The Perfect Outfit.”

Ah, yes. This is definitely “me.”

I am in the midst of examining a few Style Arc patterns -

The Safari Jane Jacket has just the right amount of comfy slouch.

The Lara Cardi has the touch of wool I’ve envisioned for the small collection of wooly fabrics I’ve collected.

The Shelly Top is a dynamite cross over which mimics a RTW I recently purchased and love. I was going to trace the top, but perhaps purchasing a pattern would be better. It will certainly be easier!

Sewing for the SWAP doesn’t officially begin until Dec 26, though I can make muslins and cut fashion fabric before then, plus I am allowed to make two garments before the start date. I’m still in the designing/dreaming phase so I have quite a bit of work to do. Good thing sewing doesn’t end until April 30.

Are you planning to SWAP this year?

I haven’t shown you this yet series: Bronze Vest

2011-11-13T15:48:00.001-05:00

This is one seriously weird vest.

This vest looks best off rather than on.

The back…

I think the fabric was acquired in a mystery bundle from Fabric Mart.

A “parting” shot….

Go ahead. Laugh.

I Haven’t Yet Shown You This Series: Wine Linen

2011-11-13T15:41:00.001-05:00

Skirt: Butterick 5421 View B

Vest: McCalls 2260

Bow Pin: my own

I made a coordinating top with bow: Kwik Sew 3782 and skirt with flounce: New Look 6463 View D, from a light and breezy floral rayon which I think I bought at Hancocks. You can see the fabric on the bindings below.

Talk about the swish factor…..

I lined the skirt and used a stable cotton broadcloth for the facing.

I have worn the vest with black jeans on several occasions.

I Haven’t Yet Shown You These Series: White Jacket with Buttons Plus Black Suit and Top

2011-11-13T15:23:00.001-05:00

Things I’ve made but not shared. Some of the photos are poor quality – not sure why as I set the camera on a tripod on the sewing table and set the timer. Anyway, I don’t have the energy or gumption to redo the photo shoot but hope you enjoy seeing some of the things I’ve made.

First up: The White Jacket I made last winter with buttons added since my “adjustment” this summer. After looking at the photos, I can see that I ought to wear this with button opened.

Black Suit made March 2011. The skirt is Pamela Patterns Magic Pencil Skirt. The jacket is Butterick 5400. I beheaded myself due to a very odd expression on my face…waiting for camera timers is not easy – I end up talking to myself before the FLASH! catches me by surprise.

Below you can see seaming detail I added because the suit was too large.

Below are the cuffs which were too wide. I added a pleat and buttons.

Lastly, the elastic back took out additional width.

The details above, though not a part of the original pattern, adds unusual, unexpected touches and makes the suit work for me.

The top was made last month using an OOP Sandra Betzina pattern sent to me by a dear gal who sent me a huge lot of patterns a few weeks ago: Butterick 3124. The giraffe floral ITY fabric was acquired in September from Fabric Mart in their by one get one sale.

Garment District in a Whirlwind

2011-11-11T08:57:00.001-05:00

I spent the last 2 weeks on an unexpected road trip. What I thought would be a quick 2 night stay in DC (a 6 hour drive), turned into 12 nights out and included a drive right past Manhattan and onto Long Island. Our time in DC was extend due to a family funeral, which wasn’t all that unexpected as my brother’s mother-in-law had entered hospice a few days prior. We sat shiva with my brother and his wife for several days before heading to New York.

While in DC I had visited G Street twice and pulled some lovely fabrics off the $2.98 wall. But I started itching for trims. And with NYC within arm’s reach, it was a no-brainer. The train station was directly across from the hotel. I’d never taken the Long Island Rail Road, but I used to be adventurous and felt I could resurrect that long-dormant trait. One hitch in my get-up-and-go: we were traveling with Murphy, a 12 pound pooch and the hotel would not permit me to keep him in the room unattended. Last minute attempts to locate a pet sitter failed. So, if I were to go into the city, with Murphy I would go.

I chose this photo of Murphy even though it isn’t his best side because it shows you the life he’s accustomed to. There are cattle off our back deck. Planning a trip into the city with the jungle of feet would require concessions to Murphy’s need to not be stepped upon. This dog is skittish in a crowd. Can’t blame him, really. I could carry him. Except I can’t carry 12 pounds for hours on end even in a pet carrier slung over my shoulder. I needed wheels. My husband had a wheeling over-sized brief case…see where I’m going with this? Isn’t a trip into NYC worth the silliness?

I put a towel in the bottom of the case, took Murphy for a test ride in the hotel room across the carpet. He wasn’t happy but he stayed put after a false start or two. I attached his leash in the event he decided to jump out (or someone decided to snatch his cute hide while I wasn’t looking). I wore a vest with zippered pockets to keep my hands free – lipstick, license, credit card, cash, hotel card, and hand-drawn map of stores I hoped to visit – basic essentials (oh, and a water bottle in the suitcase with Murphy for his needs). Check check check. Taking chutzpah in hand, setting my determination to reach the Garment District, Murphy and I wheeled confidently out of the hotel. (Picture me with attitude.)

A haughty spirit is despised and mine came to a crashing end a mere three feet past the hotel doors in full view of the 5 doormen and bellboys hovering to lend a hand. A haughty spirit can be a heavy burden, therefore it was a good thing strong men were available to assist.

At the first rumbling sound as the case bumped across the concrete, Murphy absolutely freaked out, jumping out of the case, straining against the leash holding him close, trying to do one thing: escape!

A dog used to the finer things in life was not going in peacefully. But by then, I had decided going in was the only way I wanted to spend my day. So we made it work. I coddled and baby talked and eventually he decided he trusted me.

The train ride was uneventful, the city was hot hot hot and more crowded than I ever recall witnessing. Murphy was a good boy. Until he wasn’t. He did freak a time or two, jumping into the jungle of swiftly moving legs.

(I mean, that’s not even a REAL tiger. Goodness!)

Within short order, Murphy decided his case was a haven and gladly stayed put. By then I’d shed my vest (did I mention how HOT I was?) and added it to the bottom of the case so he was able to sit a bit higher which made it easier for him – perhaps it was more comfortable as well. All the store owners were kind (especially Paron’s). People on the street laughed behind my back. Children were delighted. I wish I had a photo. Perhaps I’ll mock one up later to show you.

I didn’t need more fabric. Well, I did, always, but I wasn’t going to try to carry the weight and I couldn’t justify the expenditure after last week’s G Street haul. So I aimed for trims.

M&J Trims: hem tape in black and white, fold over elastic in gunmetal grey. I would have bought oodles more but they simply did not have more in a good color or weight. How disappointing. The brown mesh is stretch. And the black is faggoting. I’ve never used faggoting or FOE.

From Daytona Trim:

I’d love to show you photos of separating zippers – but I could not find what I wanted anywhere.

After a few hours, I was hot, tired, Murphy was exhausted and so we headed out. I wish I had found more goodies to come home with me, but I think overcoming fears and finding a way to “make it work” was worth the effort. I have regained a bit of my youthful sense of adventure.

Mostly, I feel I have arrived. When I last visited the Garment District – two years ago? – I felt like an uninvited guest to the banquet. Not so this time. I belong. I’m a sewist. I know what I’m doing with a needle and thread. My suitcase was packed with clothing I’d made, sandwiched between the RTW. As a matter of fact, my best clothes, those I wore to the funeral and family events were mine: a black knit suit with pencil skirt and matching jacket, plus a sleeveless turtleneck and a winter white wool jacket and faux brown suede skirt. I have just realized I have no photos of most of these elements – I must get better at photographing my creations!

Here is the wool jacket, photo taken last spring.

With my “adjustment” I found the jacket too large, so I added buttons and hand-bound button holes. I’ll have to get a photo of the new me wearing it, but this will have to suffice for now. With the buttons, I don’t need to alter the darts and the jacket looks fine.

Today, Murphy is happy to be home where the worst thing that can happen to him is a faux fox stole.

And I did all this without the hand-drawn map. I'm not sure it even made it onto the train with me. Yes. I have arrived.

G Street Take Two

2011-11-10T22:46:00.001-05:00

The last time I visited G Street I was awash with disappointment.

This time I managed to visit twice within one week and found loveliness both times. Just wait till you see what I found on the back wall for $2.98/yard.

The Pile

I aimed for textures. Want a closer look?

Here’s my least favorite, but I do need a pop of color every so often. We’ll see what happens with it next spring.

Look at this trio of grey texture. I think I bought a yard or so of each, so they will become a skirt most likely, unless I decide to make a vest. The fabric on the left has quite a bit of brown and is soft like flannel, though it has a thicker hand. I hope it doesn’t pill. The tweed will surely be a skirt – the fabric on the right isn’t decided quite yet.

The following photo shows a lot of mostly one-yard choices.

Look at this piece and the buttons I found to match. I’m thinking a funky jacket. Perhaps some slacks. I have oodles of this – it’s quite lovely. Perhaps a bit dressy, so I’ll have to find a way to dress it down to fit my lifestyle.

Blues. The top piece is double knit and about 5 yards.

Fun in Gold. I think I’ll make a removable collar with the velvet. I’ll have to choose a base fabric. The patterned piece will become a simple shell to wear underneath as the golds are a perfect match. I don’t love to wear pattern near my face, but I think wearing a bit to peak from under a wonderful jacket might work well. Another woman opted to buy lots of this patterned fabric, but I cannot fathom how she’ll wear it!

I was attracted to this fabric and chose buttons – hoping to be a bit creative with this.

And last…a border print…check out the texture…

What do you think of these $2.98 finds?

I took a bit of a hiatus from blogging because I had a major alteration performed this summer with a reduction of sorts. Wink. I feel so much better physically and have gained a new confidence. I had to overcome the mental block regarding fitting the new me but that’s fodder for a different post. Meanwhile I’ve decided to be a bit more creative with my approach to what I wear and I’m looking forward to putting that vision under the needle.

G Street in Rockville in March

2011-03-23T09:52:00.001-04:00

Photo heavy.

Not.

Not one thing caught my eye.

Nothing called my name.

Not one bolt needed attention, to be petted, to be cut.

The store seemed almost empty.

I bought basic lining (black and creme).

I picked up some buttons to match fabric from my collection.

Thread.

C’est tout.

Disappointment aside, I wonder, is this is a reflection on my lack of creativity, a sign of things to come for G Street due to their buyers, or a reflection on the manufacturing industry?

March 2011 Jacket – The Winter White Wool

2011-03-02T21:31:00.001-05:00

Vogue 7969 View B

(squinting into the sun)

The fabric was bought at G Street last Thanksgiving.

As you can see, interfacing was factory applied, making my task easier.

Alterations:

- FBA plus redirecting darts to point to my apex

- Broad back

- Petite

- Widened the sleeve but I think it is still a tad too tight.

- Altered hem line: shorter than the long view B but longer than the short view A

You and the mistakes and mis-starts first?

- I feel the shoulders are too droopy even after taking about 1 1/2 inches off the shoulder width. Ack! After reviewing this, I realize what I’m doing wrong. I am performing a broad back adjustment (cutting the armscyce and sliding it to accomodate my back) but neglecting to fold out the excess in the shoulders. I think I’ll try using a shoulder dart to accommodate that added width. This pattern had the shoulder dart, but I could have deepened and lengthened it.

- I used Ann Rowley’s method of wrapping the armscye seams with polyester batting – and it shows through (see the thick seam?). Should I pick it off?

- I have 3/8 inch shoulder pads – and they do help – but I think I need more – or I need to hike up those shoulders more.

- The armscye is too tight. The lining was painful to wear this afternoon so that I’ve just finished opening it up and inserting a fisheye gusset. It’s not lovely, but it gets the job done. Relatively. I’m still pondering the why-to-fore’s on this issue. Why is the lining so tight that it dug into my skin?

- I’m still performing the sway back too deeply.

- Finishing off the bagging is killing me! I tried Gigi’s method but look what I did – see that rectangular insert at the bottom – the one with the grain going the wrong way?

My other facing looks nicer. The directions called for the hong kong finish of the raw edge. Why can’t I figure out how to turn it under and have it sewn like everyone else?

- Wrinkles in the shoulders indicate I’m still needing help there – I think I do need to take more width off the shoulders.

Positives:

- I was able to finish off the lining in the sleeves, sewing the lining to the hem of the sleeve, without much ado except that the lining was too long and I had to unpick it and cut the lining quite a bit shorter to prevent it from peeking out. Did I miss something in the cutting?

- I hand-picked the darts and I like the subtle touch.

Soooo – I’ll wear it. I don’t think the issues are glaring to non-sewists. I feel I’ve learned a TON! But after viewing the photos, I am a bit discouraged because I had made 2 muslins and felt I had the jacket fit near “perfect.” I don’t think it looks nearly as good as I had originally thought. I have many things in the queue awaiting the needle but I’m going to have to fight despair. I think I’ll clean the sewing room and sleep in it. Perhaps if I fix the shoulders……….

DC at the Gaylord in March

2011-02-20T12:02:00.001-05:00

My husband has a convention. I get to play.

I look forward to being back in DC and visiting my old stomping grounds. I grew up in the DC area, Maryland side. Many weekends, I would walk to the bus stop and, for 40 cents, find myself at the National Zoo or one of the Smithsonian Museums or the National Cathedral. Of course, once the Metro was built (during my high school years), that was the preferred method of transportation and oh so much fun in those first years of operation!

March in DC can be unpredictable. I expect cold, blustery winds, rain, some sunshine and perhaps some warm days. Layers. Warmer layers, cooler layers. Expect anything layers. You just never know.

I put together a packing list last eve…at 3am…once the mind starts wandering, there’s only one way to silence it: draw it on little 3x5 cards. I’ll wear a nice outfit to dinner one evening, and recycle part of the outfit in the following days for my daytime activities.

This is what I need to sew in order for the plan to succeed:

1. Jacket: winter white, soft wool. factory interfaced.

Question: Should I use the same pattern as the purple wool coat? It has no button closures and too-wide sleeves: so that’s preventing me from answering a resounding yes. But I have it fitting so nicely!

I’m leaning towards Silhouettes 909. I’ve made two muslins thus far and think I have it fitting well.

But I’m totally undecided. I’d love you to weigh in with suggestions. What is stopping me from deciding???

2. Top to Match Jacket: a winter white top to match (I’m not seeing fabric in my collection so this might be a frustrating task). What I have is too white or too yellow.

3. Skirt: a black/off-white chiffon pattern from fabric I already have. I can’t find a photo so you’ll have to wait for the final product. I’ll make a simple A-line, elastic waist, calf-length, lined with off-white Bemberg. This can be paired with the above jacket and top and also with a black RTW sweater set I have. Two evening outfits.

4. Skirt: a sold black skirt, textured fabric – blend unknown. I’m pairing it with the following sweater set.

5. Rust Sweater Set: silk jersey from G Street. Will match the solid black skirt.

This basic black/winter white wardrobe with slight splashes of color (for spring!) will be supported with a few RTW items: sleeveless turtlenecks, off-white rain jacket with rust trim, and jeans. I plan to highlight the sets with scarves.

I also plan to bring the black/white jacket I completed in January to pair with black RTW trousers or the black skirt and, depending on the weather reports closer to the day of departure the purple wool jacket to pair with black trousers or skirt or jeans.

If I run out of evening outfits (one never knows ahead of time just how many evening events one must attend), I can pair the black skirt with rust top and white jacket and scarf to pull it all together.

I have plans to meet an old friend for lunch – haven’t seen her since 10th grade. We recently reconnected via Facebook and I love her as much now as I did then! Perhaps I’ll be heading the tour parade for spouses of event attendees.

I’ve never been to the Spy Museum. Need to fix that.

February’s Wooly Jacket

2011-02-13T14:16:00.001-05:00

McCall’s 6208, view E

This is a very simple, unlined jacket. Not even a dart. I think I picked up the fabric at Hancock’s on their sale table – pretty sure anyway. I always think I’ll remember…

Adjustments I performed: my usual FBA, a forward shoulder (but I forgot to change the sleeve to accommodate so the sleeve is slightly wonky but not enough to be uncomfortable because this sleeve is HUGE), a slight prominent shoulder blade and sway back.

Changes I made mid-stream:

1. I took out 1 1/2 inches off the shoulder/armscye tapering to the notches.

2. After hemming the sleeve cuffs as narrow as possible, I realized they were not right. They were bulky, the sleeve was too short, the cuff too narrow. I simply took them off and hemmed the sleeve to a good length. The coat looks better. I never think to take photos of something I don’t like (making a mental note to do so next time).

See the wonky sleeve? (Ignore the fighting-a-headache aura.)

But also notice how nicely the coat collar and front are simply formed. There is no closure or buttons. And no dart.

Have you noticed needy Murphy? After the trip to Pittsburgh last week, he’s even MORE imprinted on me than previously. His Chihuahua is showing (his mother was a tea cup). Next post I’ll be sure to post a photo of his eyes which show his lineage. They breed these Chiweenie’s down south. Chihuahua/Daschund – get it?

Looking at this side view, I think I’m making too prominent a sway back. Or maybe I need to add a bit of length at center back as a part of the sway back. The door knob is not a button – but perhaps a button at waist level might be a good idea?

If this were made in a lighter weight jacket (and I might make another), I think I’ll need to add fish-eye darts. The additional fabric is not so bad in a sweater coat – I may wear a heavier sweater with this – so I’m okay with the ease as is.

Not a favorite, but I think it’s a great jacket to throw on to run out on errands – roomy and comfy and warm.

Next up: silk scarves (need to roll hem) and then a pink wooly jacket.

Burda and Murphy in Pittsburgh

2011-02-09T16:13:00.001-05:00

Just because I have not been to a Joann’s in many years – just because there is one a mile from the hotel – just because the day loomed with nary a responsibility save, perhaps, to wine and dine later – just because the dog was snuggled in his carrier and I could carry him into the store in that manner – and just because I was curious to see - - -

It was a super store, with a very small (relatively speaking compared with the rest of the place) fabric department. I think the scrapbooking section was larger than the fabric section. The majority of fabrics was fleece and flannel. I didn’t see anything at all tempting to purchase.

Until I noticed a Burda pattern book on the pattern book table. I laid the dog carrier down and noticed that he would stop whining to be let out if I kept up a running commentary. This dog is imprinted on me. I am his security blanket. It is annoying. But it is what it is.

“Oh look, Murphy,” said in my special Murphy sing song voice, very annoying if you are not Murphy, I am sure,

“this princess-lined dress is probably quite a nicely made pattern which I can alter with an FBA. Perhaps I can have a TNT like Carolyn and use this over and over. I must remember to add width to the shoulders to hide my straps which always peek out the back of the armholes. Other than that, I think this would be a perfect dress for that white linen I’ve been saving, you know Murphy, the one hanging in my closet with the scattered green flowers. Yes, Murph, I think I need this.”

“And, Murphy, good boy, no whining, what do you think about this?”

“It is unstructured and even has a hood if I should want one. I think we could make the blue wool into this quite nicely, don’t you, good boy? I like the sleeveless view for next fall. We’ll come up with some fabric for that, won’t we?”

“Oh, look at this one! I like the asymmetric front opening and large decorative button. Maybe this would be perfect for the winter white wool I bought at G Street. Oh, hush, good boy. I’ll keep talking…I don’t think I’ll be adding the ruffle…”

“Do you think we need this Chanel-type jacket? Everyone seems to like them. Yes, this one is a bit different. See view B, Murph-man? It has a pleat mid-back with looks very interesting.”

“

“And the front slits on that view is also an interesting feature which adds a touch of pizzazz don’t you think? I wonder if I could edge so neatly. I may have to leave that off. But I like the length for something a little more dressy. What a good boy, aren’t you? Maybe my pink G Street wool for this? Or the green velvet that still does not have a pattern? We’ll see when we get home.”

“Oh, look at this skirt. That short one has just the right amount of flounce. Not too much, which looks ridiculous on me. Let’s try it and see if we like it for that nice black wool we purchased yesterday, shall we?”

“Ready to go for a car ride? Perhaps the hotel room is tidy now. I’d like a nap. All this talking is getting on my nerves and I could use a break. Right, boy?”

The Fabric Place – Pittsburgh

2011-02-08T15:44:00.001-05:00

Rolling hilly back neighborhoods with houses distinctly Pennsylvanian, reminding me of the decade I spent in Chambersburg raising my children, opened onto a main street with parking meters lining the curb. I had forgotten about parking meters. Mine would not take my quarters as there was a bent one stuck in the slot. I figured it was a freebie for me and took the spot rather than seek out another because the frigid wind was whipping and I’d found a relatively slush-free spot directly across from my destination.

I slung the dog-carrier across my shoulder (couldn’t leave the poor Chiweenie in the car to freeze) with hopes that he’d be mistaken for an oversized purse. His whining spoiled that effect as soon as we entered the shop. So much for incognito. But not to worry, the ladies (I found out one was the owner, Tami) were not at all put out by his incessant whining from the confines of his new “bed.”

I am here on business. Well, my husband is here on business, I am here on a shopping spree. Er – to help share the driving and keep him company this week. Ikea is a mile away (have not been to one in 3 decades!) as is DSW shoes, which I heard recommended recently.

But my first stop had to be The Fabric Place. I needed lining and I was told they have Bemberg. They do. In oodles of colors. I stocked up on several. And I asked about other silk linings and was shown several which were on sale and less costly than the Bemberg (which is $8.50/yard).

Here are the silks:

I hope to turn the bold black and white into a scarf as one of the sales ladies had done. It is just lovely. Luxurious.

I then mentioned an event I plan to attend this spring or summer in DC and my intention to make an outfit. I was shown several options but settled on this jewel-toned knit – it has sparkles which are not apparent in the photo. Just a wee bit of bling. I’ll make a simple shell with it.

I’ll top it with a simple cardigan, 3/4 sleeve length made with this purple summer weight wool. The drape on this wool is so delicious!

The black will be the skirt – an 800 weight suiting wool that is a remnant large enough to be a skirt with a wee flounce.

This is quite a bit more colorful than I normally wear, but the jewel tones are definitely my colors and the bling of the shell will be muted by the solid cardigan and black skirt. I’ll need to find earrings – or bracelets. Bracelets sound right, I think.

I highly recommend this shop if you ever find yourself in Pittsburgh. In winter. The morning after a snow. With a dog in tow. Tami is kind and helpful and is happy to send swatches. She has unique and fine things. This ain’t no Joann’s! She is generous with her cuts and tears fabric on grain. She took her time and held up fabric to my face before a mirror to convince me that my pale off-white and beige selections were truly not in my best interests. There is lace and trimmings and a button wall – not as extensive as G Street, but quite unique and sufficient. Such a treasure is this shop.

Zebra print shoes? DSW, here I come!

Fabric Mart Fun

2011-02-05T13:51:00.001-05:00

While ill with a virus all week, I succumbed to temptations. I ordered 4 lengths of fabric plus a mystery bundle. Those bundles are addictive, aren’t they?

First what I bought individually:

The top two are linen. The left wine color is 100% linen. On the right, the cooper is linen/rayon blend. They are both luxurious to the touch.

The bottom left is a Nicole Miller stretch velveteen (3% lycra). The paisley is sueded cotton (per Fabric Mart’s description). I love the subtle paisley. I think this is my favorite type of texture: a subtle self-hued pattern.
I ordered “matching” thread. They got 2 out of four matched. I have no idea what the dusty pick is supposed to match! And the other linen color also does not match in real light, the thread is too red. I doubt I’ll order “matching” thread again – though when they get it right, it’s convenient. And I guess 50% isn’t too bad for that convenience. But really? Dusty pink in a package of wine and rust?

This mystery bundle is the best thus far! I received 5 fabrics for a total of 9 1/2 yards.

plus plus

The charcoal grey is a fine wool with an amazing drape. I’m thinking a Loes Hinse jacket will show this to full potential.

Next to that is a grey silk (not violet as in the photo).

That’s followed by an aqua cotton – perhaps a fine lawn? Just beautiful! I wish I could photo the color better, but this is a cloudy day and it’s just not happening.

Stretch black velvet as soft as down and so shiny. Unbelievable!

The stripe (out of focus, sorry) cotton is the only think I can’t envision a use for immediately. But it is a fun and interesting fabric.

I really hit the mother lode with this bundle, didn’t I?

January’s Jacket - Butterick 5423

2011-01-29T16:23:00.001-05:00

It took time to gain momentum for January’s jacket for participation in Jacket-a-Month for 2011 on Stitcher's Guild.

While waiting for jacket vision, I made a skirt faux wrap skirt (it's a tad small but I've gained holiday weight which WILL come off soon! A girl can hope!) and a couple of knit tops.

My jacket is Butterick 5423, View D. I made it in black/white (like on the photo) with a fabric that is synthetic something or other with woven corded designs. I like that it doesn't ravel and was fairly easy to sew. The colorway is a bit "loud" for me, but the more I look at it, the more I'm liking it. I wore it out today and it felt “right.” My husband thinks its perfect for jeans and a turtleneck in that it dresses up the jeans a bit but is not too dressy.

The buttons are formed by layering a plain black button with a laser-imprinted white one. They fit together perfectly! I'm liking the look.

It's lined with Bemberg. The sleeve lining was finished using the technique found on Thread’s Magazine website on bagging your lining. Scrolling to the bottom of the page describes a way to machine finish sleeve linings, attaching them to the hem of the sleeve. It took awhile to get my head around what to do, but once I did, I was amazed at how well this looks. I'll surely use this technique in the future.

It's a bit of a crazy coat. The disappointment is that the busy design hides seam detail (a mistake I've seen others admit to making - and hoped to avoid myself). I may make this again with a solid color.

I took out a couple of inches in the long seam from neckline to wrist, narrowing the sleeve quite a bit, and tapered the arm even further from the elbow to the wrist.

A note: if you decide to make this, use something with a bit of a drape - I don't think something stiff would work well.

Bonus: I found a few patterns at a community yard sale this morning. I bought the Vogues to read the vintage instructions.

Coming Next: A lavender sweater coat or vest – I haven’t decided if I want it to have sleeves.

I'm a WINNER!

2011-01-21T15:50:00.002-05:00

I won a fat-quarter give-away hosted by Miss Sews-it-all along with a pattern for a pattern for a cute purse. I've been wanting to try my hand at something non-clothing related and this pair of gifts is perfect!

Go take a look at what's coming my way! Thanks Miss Sews-it-all! I sincerely love these gifts.

I’ve Joined the Fun – 12 in 12 in 2011

2010-12-30T11:10:00.001-05:00

12 Jackets in 12 Months. Too bad we’re one year shy of 2012! It’d be more fun to be 12 in 12 in 12. Ah well.

Many of the sticher’s of Sticher’s Guild have been inspired by Gigi, who sewed 13 jackets in 2010 (so far – there are two days left and this woman just may surprise us with a 14th!). Be sure you click the link to see Gigi’s wonderful collection.

I don’t know if I’ll meet the stated goal, being a new sewist. But I do aim to make at least a few jackets. And that’s okay because there are no contracts to sign and no obligations to meet. This is not a contest like the SWAP. This is simply a joint effort to get to know and sew jackets. Anyone can join at any time, so if you feel inspired, come and join us!

I have no need for blazers or fitted jackets. I enjoy less structure in my jackets and, since I live a casual lifestyle, something a bit funky might be nice. But not too funky so that I look ridiculous!

I have a head start with my Grey Wool Coat (and since there are no rules, I am counting a coat made just a couple of weeks ago towards my 2011 goals). The coat is not quite finished: I bought shoulder pads yesterday and hope that inserting them will finalize the shoulders and fix the way it hangs.

I have several patterns from which to choose my next effort. Yesterday I bought 3 new jacket patterns. I do have several others – many others – but nothing calling my name thus far.

McCall’s 9576 calls for something bulky and warm. I don’t have anything suitable in my collection and I’m not sure I’m ready for the challenge of bulk just yet.

McCall’s 6208 claims to be easy. I bought it for View D, a vest. I’m not sure I like the sleeved jackets for me.

Kwik Sew 3095 looks to be the winning contender. I like the seam detail and the pockets and side slit. It’ll be difficult to decide on one over the other – pockets or slits. It looks a bit boxy, but I’m okay with that for this particular coat.

My husband has this week off work and we are officially on a “staycation” so I’m refraining my impulse to spend hours in the sewing room in favor of spending quality time with him. I’ll have plenty of time next week to sew. There’s no rush to start the next project. I’ve learned the lesson well: slow and steady.

This week, even though I’ve been ill with a sinus infection (dang!), we’ve attempted to go out and do something fun daily. Yesterday we went to an hour away to the nearest non-quilt sewing store where I picked up the above patterns, shoulder pads, and a few yards of fabric on sale. And for him, we stopped at a Lexus dealership for a test drive as the lease on his work vehicle is coming due soon and he needs to finalize his choice for the next vehicle. He kept the visit short and sweet, if you want to call an hour at a car dealership short.

Meanwhile, I can prepare fabric and finalize my choices so that when next week rolls around, I’ll be ready to sew.

Weaving

2010-12-24T16:00:00.004-05:00

What a wonderful weaving of the Old into the New.

From the Old....

Micah 5:2 But as for you, Bethlehem Ephrathah,Too little to be among the clans of Judah, From you One will go forth for Me to be ruler in Israel His goings forth are from long ago, from the days of eternity.

Isaiah 9:5 For to us a child is born, to us a son is given, and the government will be on his shoulders.And he will be called Wonderful Counselor, Mighty God, Everlasting Father, Prince of Peace. Of the greatness of his government and peace there will be no end. He will reign on David’s throne and over his kingdom,establishing and upholding it with justice and righteousness from that time on and forever. The zeal of the LORD Almighty will accomplish this.

Isaiah 7:14 Therefore the Lord Himself will give you a sign: Behold, a virgin will be with child and bear a son, and she will call His name Immanuel.

Zechariah 9:9 Rejoice greatly, O daughter of Zion! Shout in triumph, O daughter of Jerusalem! Behold, your king is coming to you; He is just and endowed with salvation, Humble, and mounted on a donkey, Even on a colt, the foal of a donkey.

Isaiah 53:3 He is despised and rejected of men: a man of sorrows, and acquainted with grief.

Isaiah 50:6 He gave his back to the smiters, and his cheeks to them that plucked off the hair: he hid not hit face from shame and spitting.

Isaiah 53:4,5 Surely he hath borne our griefs, and carried our sorrows. He was wounded for our transgressions, he was bruised for our iniquities: the chastisement of our peace was upon him, And with His stripes we are healed.

Isaiah 53:6 All we like sheep have gone astray; we have turned every one to his own way; and the Lord hath laid on him the iniquity of us all.

Isaiah 53:8b He was cut off out of the land of the living: for the transgression of thy people was He stricken.

Psalm 16:10 But thous didst not leave his soul in hell; neither didst thou suffer Thy Holy One to see corruption.

Zechariah 12:10 "I will pour out on the house of David and on the inhabitants of Jerusalem, the Spirit of grace and of supplication, so that they will look on Me whom they have pierced; and they will mourn for Him, as one mourns for an only son, and they will weep bitterly over Him like the bitter weeping over a firstborn.

Weaving with the New. You know the His-Story.

I am a Jew, a descendant daughter of Abraham, Isaac and Jacob. I know of Whom these Old Testament Prophets fore-spoke. Surely you do too?

O Come O Come Immanuel like you've never heard it before.

[Edited to update embedded link which was not working when I first posted.]

Year End 2010

2010-12-22T16:15:00.004-05:00

Sewing in 2010 what a huge blessing!

I had learning seasons
And then there were productive ones

I've become a Necchi collector
There's just something about taking a worn out, dusty, rusty, frozen, unappreciated machine and redeeming it (sounds like my life - anyone else relate?)

I had disappointments (I looked over my wader pile last week, sigh)
I have had encouragements

Stitcher's Guild has been my A-Number One teacher
Other teachers are the many generous blogsters who post tutorials, photo and video
And everyone who posts photos on the forum or in their blogs are fodder for inspiration

I have purged my wardrobe (and my possessions)
I have gone on vacations where the majority of my wardrobe has been me-made

I have printed patterns from Russia
When Lekala offered them in my size for free (yay!)

I have sewn in my jammies but I have not sewn jammies
Or any other unmentionables but bra-seamstresses amaze me!

I have gone on a fabric spree at the garment district in NYC
And shopped black Friday (okay, it was Saturday) at G Street in Rockville

I am developing preferences for finer fabric (less is more)
And have chosen to slow down and be more deliberate in design and construction

I have beaded
I have fringed
I have top stitched
I have made fabric flowers
I have made a front fly (which came out backwards, but ah, well)

I have made:
17 skirts
20 tops
2 jackets
3 cardigans
1 hooded sweatshirt
3 cozy satchels for my neighbor's sugar glider (google them)

2011 - Goals
I plan to make 12 jackets in 2011 with the Jacket-a-month sew-along at Stitcher's Guild
Even though I'm experiencing a set back with a wrong-sized pattern (reminding myself that this is a minor setback)

I plan to figure out my shoulders
Do they slope?
Do I have a broad back?
Just how forward are they?

I also hope to leave more comments on your blogs instead of merely thinking about them
So if you are thinking about a comment now, please leave it! Smile.

Ironing Thread - No. Really - Ironing.Thread.

2010-12-22T14:33:00.008-05:00

I thought I was doing well in using the beeswax.

Nope.

Turns out that one must iron the beeswax into the thread.

I'm a believer now.
You ever try it?

Move over Mondo

2010-12-17T16:42:00.004-05:00

Well, not really. But this was certainly inspired by him.

LOVE this fabric!

Large houndstooth was on my wish list for my Thanksgiving trip to G street so I was thrilled when I spied this.

I used a poly fabric cut on the bias for the cording. It has a wee little check pattern, but I don't think you can see it.

I used Simplicity 9825 for the basic pattern, but I tweaked the pattern last year for another skirt and I used that tweak for this as well. The Simplicity has one seam down the front and back (with a back zipper). This version has two seams front and back with a side zipper.

I still need to hem the skirt and lining, and sew on a hook and eye.

I'm having a casual day so no photo of me modeling it until later this week.

Introducing Thirteen and a Wool Coat

2010-12-13T13:34:00.008-05:00

Purchased at auction Friday night. For $13.13, could YOU resist?

Original Condition. Almost totally frozen.

After an afternoon of cleaning.

I oiled her yesterday and after soaking up the Teflon Tri-flow oil overnight, she runs smoothly and silently without any rough patches when I turn the handwheel. I have yet to sew with her because she needs a belt but I don't expect any surprises.

This brings my Necchi collection to 3:
1. My Beloved pink Nora.
2. The SN Automatica my son brought me from NY. I think I'll call this one Arlowene after the kindly lady who sold it to me. Arlowene did not sew; this was her mother-in-law's machine.
3. This SN Automatica which I've named "Thirteen."

Grey Wool Coat Butterick 5400
As for actual sewing, I started this jacket before Thanksgiving. I prefer casual jackets to blazers. I am aiming to make some unlined, comfortable wool jackets.

I had such a difficult time fitting this. Between forward shoulders, sloping shoulders, trying to avoid a bust dart by doing a neckline alteration, broad back alterations and the corresponding front shoulder adjustment, I got myself thoroughly confused. It still is not quite right but I'm at a loss to know exactly what is amiss. I added fish eye darts to take out some of the width in the back under my shoulder blades.

I was going to leave it unfinished, but I finished it this afternoon - it just needed some finishing touches (hems and seam finishes). I will probably wear it - at least once - to see how it feels for an outting.

Okay. It doesn't look too bad in the photos. But I picked the photos I liked. Smile. Side views are horrid.

Most edges are raw (except for sleeve hem and hem) and finished with a triple top stitch. I picked out the loose threads (this wool ravels, unfortunately!). I like the effect and will likely use it in the future.

Even though I'm not thrilled with it, I have decided I like adding subtle artistic flair.

I added small scraps at the points of the fisheye darts and behind the buttons for added support.

Next up: A black and grey houndstooth wool skirt which I have cut to include a bias panel front and back. Fingers crossed.

Black Friday 2010 at G Street

2010-12-03T19:48:00.010-05:00

Not interested in Best Buy or Walmart deals. Not me. There is really nothing that I want or need and I'm not interested in acquiring more stuff, especially since I've just recently purged my life of the majority of my worldly goods.

But I had one store on my radar for my Thanksgiving weekend in DC and not much time to make it happen. Actually, I didn't get to the store until Saturday morning so I was expecting slim pickings.

I chose these off the back wall after a quick perusal:

This is a knit which I think will make a great cardigan or light jacket for spring. I like the floral motif.

The large dotted will be a simple layering shell. I only bought a small amount of the black with tiny dots - thinking that it might make a good accent for something. I bought too much of the white, but thought it might make good muslin for knits, besides, white is always classic and I like the texture.

After that, I made my way to the lining and this is when my shopping trip turned into a private sewing lesson.

Lucia's first lesson was a suggestion on which interfacing to buy. I chose three colors. I also chose three basic lining colors. Boring but necessary purchases.

Does Bemberg need to be pre-washed for shrinkage? (Bemberg at the top, interfacings below.)

While Lucia cut, she kindly pointed me to a couple of bins, where I found these silk jerseys:

This jersey is a tube shape and very narrow but oh so lovely.
(I'm using the spool of thread for scale reference.)

....and these wools:

Lucia suggested I make a bias cut skirt from this plaid:

Lucia instructed me to cut this single layered, to first cut one piece in a corner and then lay the piece (turned over) and match up the plaids perfectly to cut the second piece. This will give me a perfectly matched plaid. Sounds simple enough. But looking at this plaid, it does not seem to be a perfect bias print. Does it to you?

I think my favorite piece is this houndstooth. I had hopes to find one - and I'm thrilled to have located this piece. Mondo has inspired me to do something a bit special with it - though I'm certainly more tame than he.

I do like textured fabrics - those fabrics which have interesting patterns based on weave alone. Notice the bias in the weave of the gold. It'll surely be interesting using that piece.

Now here is a wool piece Lucia found interesting.

Can you see the interfacing which is already fused to the whole length? Ever seen that before?

Lucia suggested that I find a simple jacket pattern and use it over and over again, with artistic changes. She helped me choose this one with the instructions that I could cut off the lapels. I LIKE the lapels and I like the casual ease of the cut. I think I'll be working on fitting this to perfection!

Not such slim pickins' after all!

Darts in Knits are Evil, Aren't They?

2010-11-04T08:21:00.007-04:00

As a full-b usted woman, I need darts. But I don't like them in my knitted tops - they pull, they get little holes (yes, I'm using proper needles). They look odd (it's not my technique). I just don't think they look good.

Look what I was able to accomplish this week on a knitted shell. I DID alter the pattern to accommodate my figure, but did not perform my customary Y shaped slash and spread.

Look: a nice fitting garment without a dart and no pull across the front.

First the photos:

And look at that armhole: no gaping!

I even managed to get the same effect on the matching cardigan.

Here are the three FBA adjustments I performed after my other alterations were done (broad back and petite):

1. I lengthened the center front by about 3/4 to 1 inch. I simply drew in a triangular shaped wedge, lengthening the CF seam grading to nothing at the side seam. I did not curve the grading line.

2. I drew a curved "bump" at the side bust area on the front bodice only. I curved it out about an inch (to the next size on this particular pattern). I graded back to the seam line above the waist shaping. This bump is just for the bust area. I pinned and carefully eased the excess which was quite easy on this particular knit.

3. I used Loes Hinse's FBA technique at the neckline: Working on the front bodice piece only, I inserted a triangular shaped wedge on the shoulder, increasing at the neckline. This seems counter-intuitive but has worked splendidly for me! Loes explained that this reduces the arm gaping, and as you can see from my photo, it works! You would THINK you need to pinch out the excess at the outer shoulder, right? Not so. Doing the opposite has allowed extra bust room in the garment. Here's how:

First, extend the neckline at the shoulder seam about an inch. To do this, I marked an inch above the neckline on the front shoulder seam at the neckline and extended the neckline. Note: do this on the front bodice ONLY and not on the back.
Second, I simply used a ruler to draw a line from this new raised point to the outer shoulder seam, grading down to size.

Pamela's Pattern's have the forward shoulder built into her patterns, so I did not need to perform that adjustment. I actually think it may be a bit too much forward and I might adjust it next time. I did have to petite the pattern at the armhole 3 inches!!!!!!! That's huge - but it worked. I'm learning to follow my body and not so much the pattern.

Three simple adjustments and no FBA dart!

I wonder how well this will work with other knits.

Teal Skirt and Navy Knit Sweater Set

2010-11-03T14:19:00.015-04:00

The Sweater Set: Pamela's Patterns The Versatile Twin Set
Pamela's Twin Set comes with an alternate front bodice with a dart for those with a full bust measurement 3 inches or greater than their high bust measurement. Even though I meet that criteria, I had no interest in putting a dart in this particular knit. [My next post will describe how I avoid darts in knits.]

I liked Pamela's instructions to zigzag the front facing interfacing. It set the facing very well.

Sleeve and hem are hand-stitched. This is a lovely knit with texture so I wanted it to have that invisible touch. I felt that machine stitching was unnecessary on this knit and would have caused it to appear more casual than I wanted for this particular set.

However, I decided to machine finish the facing after reasoning out that I was unsure if hand-stitching would be sufficient. I don't think this bit of stitching takes away from the finished look.

The shell needed quite a bit of shortening for proportion with the skirt but I left the cardigan the original length due to indecision. I reserve the right to shorten it later.

Skirt: Simplicity 9825

This beautiful tweedy fabric wanted to be a wrap skirt. Unfortunately, with only one yard, that was not to be, so I pulled out this tnt (tried and true). For the topstitching, I used gold topstitching thread in the needle with regular poly thread in the bobbin which my Necchi Nora handled beautifully. I am very happy with how this skirt turned out.

Next up: Skirt from this same navy knit so that I have an ensemble with options.

Selling Items Hoping to Raise Donations for Former Necchi Owner

2010-10-18T12:05:00.012-04:00

First the story.

I decided to start looking for Necchi machines in August. Wonder of wonders, there was a lovely Nora (which I'm sure you're tired of hearing about) in the next city over. It took two long weeks of coordinating schedules with the former owner, but Nora finally came home to live with me on my birthday.

In those ensuing few weeks, I found a Supernova on Craigslook. Craigslook.com searches all of craigslists in the USA instead of limiting the search to your geographical area only (which is what craigslist does). When I went to craigslook earlier this week, I found the site to be closed due to a dispute with craigslist. Here is the new address for craigslook.

The craigslook ad for the Necchi was misspelled as "Neechi." There was one photo. Of the cabinet. Closed. And posted sideways. All it said was "Neechi sewing machine." No indication of model. And without a contact phone number or email. I kept clicking on the "please contact owner to notify them to add contact information."

The interesting thing was that the listing was in my old hometown in upstate NY. I live 11 hours away, but....but....surely there had to be a way to get her if she was what I was looking for, right?

When I called the owner, she knew nothing about the machine. It had been her mother-in-law's machine. From evidence I've gathered looking at her things, I think the mother-in-law had been a seamstress. I had two questions about the machine - these two would tell me everything I needed to know: What kind? Where was it made? It took her 10 minutes to answer those questions. She had no idea where to look to answer them. I meant to ask both together, but once the first question was out of my mouth, she was gone to look. So she had to go twice. Poor dear.

I asked her to send additional photos but she said she'd have to pay someone to do that. So I imposed on my son's best friend and asked him to go take photos. He sent me photos of the label (Made in Italy) and machine (Supernova) and my heart was aflutter.

I asked the seller if I could pay her but pick up the machine sometime later. She said sure, she needed the money.

So I started scheming about how to get the machine. My son was going to NY for his best friend's wedding. But he would be busy doing best man things all weekend with nary a moment to himself to help his momma. Surely he'd be able to squeeze a bit of time? But that idea turned into a nightmare of logistics. Better not to stress the best man when his job is to de-stress the groom. Right?

So I had to cancel the idea. But the spark of hope never faded.

Finally, my son called me the Monday after the wedding [which was on 10/10/10 - cool date for a wedding], as he was driving out of town. He was post-wedding. Post-stress. I asked him to wait, pull over. Just wait. Please. Begging. I called the owner, no answer. Sigh. My son gets further down the road on his trip back here. Fifteen minutes later, the owner called me. Back to begging my son who had just reached the state line. It would only be 30 minutes of back-tracking. Begging. Look, Son, I gave you spending money. Surely you appreciate that....and haven't spent it all?!? [He did, he hadn't...we were in business...grumbly ...but in business.]

So that's the story. But while he was there, the owner spoke on the phone to a friend about a financial need. My son won't talk about it. He said it is too sad and he won't tell me anything.

When I started opening the bags and bags of tidbits and whatnot that came with the desk, I realized she had given me some things of monetary value, not directly related to the machine, but to sewing. It would be a huge blessing to sell a few of these things and send her the proceeds.

What do you think about wooden spools? If I counted correctly, there are 96(I found 3 additional spools after taking this photo).

These feet do not go with the Necchi. I am hoping someone knows what machine they go with. Perhaps they are rare and would be beneficial to someone with the machine type?

There's a collection of almost 100 buttons. I was going to keep them, but if they will raise a bit of money for her, I'm happy to part with them.

Misc collection of buttons.

New York and "FD" buttons. Could the FD buttons be Fire Department? The MIL lived outside NYC and could have altered shirts for firemen.

Cut out shapes with pattern. If you or someone you know likes to make dolls, perhaps this will speak to you. There is even additional uncut fabric. There are no doll heads.

Mystery Bobbins. Size unknown (narrower than the size 15 the Necchi uses.

Workbasket Magazine plus 3 smaller craft magazines

If you would like any of these items, please make an offer. I will take offers through Sunday, October 24, 5pm. If you have the best offer, I will notify you and we can work out a payment method. I'll have to see if I can find my paypal account (I haven't used it in about a year - but I think it is still available). Once I receive payment, I'll mail it to you asap. I hereby promise to send ALL proceeds to the dear lady in New York. Thank you. I hope I am able to send her a bit of money. It would also be a blessing to be able to tell my son we helped her out.

Announcing that I am now an official

2010-10-17T23:20:00.015-04:00

...Necchi collector with the addition of

this lovely SuperNova Automatica.

She just arrived this evening so I have not yet had an opportunity to clean her, plug her in, or get to know her. We are still in the awkward introductory phase. I hope to spend the day with her tomorrow, taking her apart, cleaning out her oil, giving her a new dose of Triflow Teflon oil and taking her for a tentative seam or two.

A few stats:

- I was told she was originally bought in 1953

This is the copyright date for one of the books which came with with the machine. It's not proof of purchase date, but certainly coincidental.

- She has a knee operating lever instead of a pedal
The knee lever is in view next to Latte.

- She has a full cam set (and the usual large selection of presser feet that come with Necchis)
Filthy!

- She came with several mystery items
Mystery 1: What is a Sew Elite?

Mysery 2: A sandpaper bobbin, of sorts. What? Why?

Mystery 3: What kind of shaft is on these feet? What machine would use these? (The Sew Elite, perhaps?)
I have been told these go to a rotary front load machine. What is that??? A serger?

Mystery 4: Plastic Pieces. Can anyone identify these for me?
KC commented that these are used to hang curtains, which makes perfectly good sense because there were other curtain hooks in the "bits and bobs." Thank you, KC.

Mystery 5: Metal Part - a metal thread cutter that should go on a machine?
I have been told this is a cutting part to a "rotary front load machine." Question: What is a rotary machine? I tried searching to no avail.

- She came with almost 100 wooden spools of thread (which I'd love to sell in order to gift the dear woman who sold her to me because she could truly use the funds). If you'd like to purchase them, please make an offer. All proceeds will go to the elderly woman who sold me the machine. (I found 3 additional wooden spools since this photo was taken and have added them to the colleciton.)

- Her throne needs a good cleaning, but won't need sanded or painted

- She came with a couple of vintage sewing books

- Someone must have made dolls to sell

- She may be wonderful, but Nora holds my heart

- She will certainly come in handy in my sewing: I can use the old, cheap Kenmore for basting, the Nora for straight stitching, and this one for zig-zag. Having this option will help me stop breaking needles when I forget to switch needle position, or presser feet, or plates.

Happiness is....my Necchi collection!

Tricky FBA for the Lekala Top

2010-10-16T06:49:00.002-04:00

Tricky seams near the bust line.

The pattern is amazingly accurate and went together like a dream. Of course I pinned it wrong the first time. Luckily I unfolded it along the pin line to see the effect and discovered my mistake. These Lekala patterns have no photos in the instructions - and the English translations leave much to be desired.

Instruction example from this pattern:
2. Sew the sides of the shelf to the central part of the allowances zautyuzhit on flank and frayed. Along the upper edge of the central part of the plateau to lay a line with a slightly prolonged stitches and gather the assembly.

Since the knit I used was quite thin and had lots of stretch, plus the pattern has those gathers at the neckline, I took a chance and made the pattern without adding an FBA.

Well, no, not quite, actually. I did add an FBA - I added a curved allowance - but to the part below the intersected seam at the side seam. Quite too low, so I simply cut it off during construction. I originally thought the intersecting seam hit higher under the arm. Not so.

So here's the question: do I add an FBA under the arm, on side seam of the wedge piece? Or do I add the FBA at the diagonal seam?

Or a should I add the FBA to both sides of the front wedge: under the arm plus at the diagonal seam, thereby sharing the burden of the FBA in two places?

The problem with fiddling with that front diagonal seam is that the pieces are beautiful. They fit so wonderfully - I'd hate to mess with that.

But then again, perhaps I could treat the pieces as a princess seam, perform a slash and spread to the wedge shaped piece (spread it about 1 inch), then slash the front piece all the way across and spread it 1 inch).

Talking about the front bodice piece, Lekala patterns print a large, flat front bodice piece. I'd rather have a piece half the size which I can place on the fold, so once printed, I folded the piece in half. I found it much easier to manage than the large multi- pieced, taped sheets of paper. I imagine there will be times when a full front bodice pattern piece will come in handy - as in when using a fabric with large motifs. Meanwhile, I'll stick to "place-on-fold" sized pattern pieces.

I would like to make this up in a dress next spring - complete with silk collar (but omit the bow)....if I can figure out how to add an FBA.

Fall Corduroy Skirt and Knit Top

2010-10-15T10:51:00.003-04:00

I love corduroy.

This very fine corduroy is made up in McCall's 6038, which is an asymmetrical pencil skirt of sorts.

The yellow knit top is another free Lekala, pattern number 5872, which is described as "Knitted Dress with Silk Collar." I obviously shorted it and omitted the silk collar and bow tie. Maybe this summer I'll make it as a dress AND use a silk collar with the bow tie.

Meanwhile, this knit is very thin, so I decided to double all pieces. It was easy enough to lay the main pieces along a fold and cut those double. Doing this meant that there is no hemline to sew.

I did not make an FBA - thinking that the gathers would be sufficient. I suppose they are - but next time I'll figure out how to make a slight FBA by simply rounding out the front seam under the arm to add just a bit more room.

The cardigan is Loes Hinse which I made up last spring.

Together, this is an outfit which is very comfortable and perfect for this breezy fall day.

Dotted Knit Top New Look 6950

2010-10-14T18:48:00.003-04:00

I needed a fall top. This View A fit the bill.

I prefer solid tops, but the colors on this fabric called to me. I added a yellow binding - just a doubled over length of fabric. You'll see this yellow fabric soon made up in a Lekala pattern.

I think the binding helps break up the dots.

I'm not sure why, but the sleeves are a tad short on me. I'd prefer them to be just below my elbow.

The neck line was huge and flopped open. I took 4 tucks across the front, two as darts. The middle two I took as pleats and sewed them down with buttons. I felt the dots could use to be broken up a bit more. I don't know why adding round, brown buttons work on this dotted fabric, but I think it does.

Over all, it's a comfortable top which I'll probably wear often this fall.

Skirt Made with Free Russian Lekala Pattern 5270

2010-10-12T14:51:00.006-04:00

Last month, Lekala patterns were offered for download in sizes 42 and 44 for free. I took advantage of the offer and downloaded several patterns.

Downloading came with many questions, foremost being: what size paper? I could have bought some A4 paper (I think) but wanted to use what I have on hand. I found a great set of instructions at Modern Sewing Patterns.
I was able to use the paper I had on hand.

The free Lekala patterns had no seam allowance. I found it rather tedious to manually add them, however the time spent gave me a great appreciation for the pattern maker. I wish I had a rotary cutter guide arm. I think that will be added to my wish list as I hope to use more Lekala patterns. If I had this arm, I would feel confident in NOT adding the seam allowance to the pattern pieces (which I did because I was afraid I'd not remember to add during the cutting phase).

I found that using a pattern cut to size is amazing! I love not having to cut off extra paper (even if it is tissue thin). The control of the pattern is so much better.

Several of these Russian patterns came with instructions in English, others were in Russian and so needed translated with the help of google translate. This made parts of the instructions difficult to decipher. For example these instructions for the fly zipper installation:

5. Zipper. Press front left panel center seam into wrong side. Press strengthener along the centre right side out, work open edges. Sew the zipper under allowance edge along left edge, teeth closely to bend. Underlay the strengthener with its bend to the center so that worked edge hides zipper band. Pin the split coinciding front center lines. Sew free zipper band to right zipper fly front; do not catch front panel fabric. Topstitch front right panel along zipper according to marking, catching fly front and folding strengthener out. Stop stitching 1.5-2 cm before center seam. Then fold strengthener out and continue the stitch up to seam.

You get that? I didn't! I had never installed a fly zipper. Thankfully, almost all answers to sewing questions are a click away. I found a great video tutorial by Theads Magazine Online.

Of course, following the instructions was a bit tricky because - I don't know why - but installing twice and ripping out twice was involved. My zipper kept coming out on the center seam, rather than lapped. The third time was the charm, except that the fly is backwards. Ah well. I can live with that - and I sewed the waistband backwards as well - to match my backwards lap. At least I'm consistent if nothing else.

I must say, understitching on my new Necchi Nora is a dream. I have never been able to sew so close to a seam on the cheap Kenmore. Stitching close to the edge is truly the key with understitching - and I FINALLY understand the purpose of it.

You know, the right tools makes a huge difference.

Oh, I cut the pattern to the original long length, but shortened it considerably without destroying the original length, that way I can make longer patterns as the season gets cooler. I did have to raise the front slit a bit, but that was easy enough.

To shorten the pattern without losing the original length, I made several slashes and simply folded them to the desired length.

Forgive the hair and scowl. I'm on week two of a killer headache - and was waiting for the car service to come change a flat tire. I had just cleaned out the trunk of my car to discover 2 inches of water in the spare tire compartment - hence double awful scowl and mussed hair. Since my trip into town was canceled, I wanted to take photos before changing into more suitable attire for cleaning out the tire well.

I did not make the little pocket belt thing. And I sewed a button closure instead of the Velcro the pattern calls for. I just looked on the pattern instructions to see what quaint term for "Velcro" Lekala used - only to find out that it is "Velcro." Smile.

My final verdict on this Lekala pattern: EXCELLENT! I love this pattern. I'll most likely make up several more of these skirts this winter, in a variety of lengths.

Vintage Machine Cleaning Tips

2010-10-11T19:42:00.005-04:00

I thoroughly cleaned Nora last weekend.

I took out all her old oil using rubbing alcohol, applied with cotton swabs and an eye dropper.

The more I removed, the more I decided to dig for more. I took off all plates that could be removed with a screw driver.

The high heat from a hair blow dryer was handy to help loosen extra stubborn oil spots.

After cleaning, I used a specialty oil recommended by the Necchi Yahoo group: Triflow Teflon oil. This oil is amazing. You can find or order it from bicycle shops. Be sure to get the teflon (P.T.F.E.) and do NOT buy the spray.

I used the Triflow at each moving junction, being careful to NOT over-oil. One or two drops is all that is needed.

After just one application, a stuck feed dog drop lever started working right away. I had used regular sewing machine oil available at sewing stores to no avail the week before. Removing that oil with rubbing alcohol and applying Triflow, fixed the problem.

My frozen flywheel is starting to move. I think I should point the hair dryer at it for a prolonged time period. The great thing about Necchi's is that frozen parts can be worked with and fixed with a bit of patience. The machine is in working order with the frozen flywheel - it's just that the main shaft does not disengage in order to wind bobbins without the needle moving.

Don't be afraid of vintage machines. The working mechanisms are fascinating.

Here are a few photos of the machine innards cleaned prior to applying the Triflow.

Broken Needles. or Using the Straight Stitch Foot. or What a Difference a Good Machine Makes. or Linings - argh!

2010-10-11T18:41:00.010-04:00

This post is having an identity crisis.

Let's start with The Difference a Good Machine Makes

I sewed my second garment with the new Nora. (I'll post about the first when I take a photo of it - a knit top which I didn't like at first, but which is growing on me).

This is the second.

Next time I use a bold floral, I'll pay more attention to the placement of motif.

Those Necchi's are amazing. What a difference in so many ways:
Speed. Finishing raw edges goes so much faster. I didn't realize until today (working on yet another skirt), that I've been sewing on high speed.

Neat even stitches.

Easy and even feeding of fabric under the feed dogs. On my Kenmore, I had to fight to keep straight seams. Now I can *almost* let the machine sew by itself. I had no idea!

Strength. Those intersecting seams? The machine didn't blip nor blurp.

Precision! Topstitching? Wow!

Broken Needles!!!! Good Grief!!!
I have discovered that using the straight stitch foot on the Necchi is phenomenal.

At first, I was switching out the plate as well as the presser feet - using the straight stitch plate rather than the zig-zap plate but it got to be a bit much switching it back and forth.

I kept forgetting if I was on zig-zag or straight stitch, causing me to break 5 or 6 needles over the course of two days. You'd think I'd have gotten my act together after one. Maybe two. Sigh. A couple of times I DID remember to change my setting to straight stitch, but had the needle in the centered position, but come to find out that the straight stitching is done in the left needle position. Good thing I've stocked up on needles, eh?

Ah, but I have found a solution!!!!

A dedicated machine just for straight stitching. More on that later this week - - - (I am sooooo excited!)

Linings. Aggravating Linings.

There must be secrets I don't know.

Ok. This skirt has things: pockets, a fly (my first and backwards - don't know how that happened. It was my third attempt and somehow...who knows how these things happen.). But the construction was easy enough.

And then I decided to add a lining. Oh.my.word. You'd think it would be simple enough. But those little details - like how to manipulate a lining around a zipper. I ended up whip stitching. Looks ok. Homemade. And what to do around a slit? It's all quite a puzzle.

Sorry for that blurry last photo. It's the best I have at this point.

If you don't have a better quality machine, I highly recommend you look for a vintage. They are relatively inexpensive but may require you to clean and work with it a bit. If I can do it, surely you can as well. Just remember: Triflow Teflon Oil. I should write a separate post on cleaning and oiling Nora.

The Almost Fail

2010-09-26T10:23:00.004-04:00

After two coats of primer ....

The more primer I used, the more bleed-through of stain even on the parts that had been sanded down to bare wood! The stain even made my brush turn pink so that I had to clean it before re-dipping into the white primer.

I tried mixing the primer with a bit of the very light gray latex I was going to use as the color. Those photos were after that coat which was the third coat.

Hand wringing and tears did not help. A trip to the new Lowe's Hardware store in town did not help. They couldn't understand how the stain was bleeding through. They were incredulous that even the brush was turning pink. I don't think they believed me. They sent me away without answers.

Fail fail fail. Total fail. Dead end. Fail. Who wants to sew? Nora's throne was trash. What had I done to it? Lots of self-recrimination ensued. Why couldn't I have been happy to keep it in the original condition? Why did I sand so much? My first attempt to refinish furniture and my hopes to paint other things, dashed. Dumb dumb dumber.

Days went by. A couple of weeks. I wasn't even tempted by online fabric store advertisements in my inbox. Not.even.tempted! Maybe I should just give up SEWING for heavens sake. I can't even put a coat of paint on wood, much less aspire to sew a coat! Oh, I can do pit-of-despair very well. And I was dancing this tune to perfection!

Nora (the real one, my daughter) came home Labor Day weekend with a new beau. At one point I opened my garage door to show him my failure. He made a simple suggestion. Oil based paint.

Oil.based.paint? What was there to loose. Up to Lowe's I trudged (should have transferred my allegiance to Home Depot after the last Lowe's debacle but this new Lowe's is just too convenient). I brought a lock of Nora's hair (the piece of metal covering the light switch) to match colors - thinking to scratch the gray and go with pink because if the oil.based.paint bleeds (and I knew it would because everything else did), the red stain wouldn't be so obvious. Maybe.

Finding a color match took all of 30 seconds. A Lowe's guy helped me find the paint and gave me some painting with oil.based.paint tips (he sold me a roller instead of a brush). Lowe's redemption.

The oil.based.paint went on with perfection. No bleeding whatsoever.

I do hope Nora keeps the guy. I wonder if he knows how to fix drains.

Yes!

2010-09-25T15:12:00.010-04:00

My local sewing machine repair guy was able to find two set screws to fit this old, European manufactured machine. Set screws hold the machine to the pegged hinges on the table so that the machine can be lowered and the top closed. After looking at the size of the holes, he was doubtful he had anything small enough, but he managed to find two mismatched screws in his 30 year old stock pile of parts.

I am anxious to put something under her needle. But I'm still in a post-migraine haze so that's going to have to wait a bit.

In the meanwhile, a few more BEFORE photos. If you double click on a photo, I think you'll get a close up.

And more AFTER photos.

Notice how well the hinges cleaned up using a bit of Tarn-x.

The handles also cleaned up nicely - even to the point of having a pink patina! I was going to replace them, but they no longer make handles to fit the 1.5 inch span for holes and I was NOT going to drill additional holes in this old cabinet. I cleaned the handles in preparation for painting - thinking to paint them gray. Once cleaned, they showed a beautiful pink patina, perfect for the Nora's desk.

The pile awaiting the sewer's touch. A good use of the uncomfortable chair.

Here is the extensive presser foot and accessory collection which came with Nora which I am anxious to employ.

Notice that there is one cam. One. I'm on the hunt for Nora's cams. I understand Lelia's cams will fit the Nora. (Supernova cam do NOT fit.) If anyone has a source, please let me know.

The Paint has Dried.

2010-09-23T20:58:00.004-04:00

Waiting for the Paint to Dry

2010-09-17T16:18:00.009-04:00

Thought I'd post a few of the things I made late spring/early summer. I wear skirts and dresses often because I love them. I think I've loved them since I was a child.

Here's a suit I made in the spring which I didn't wear at the time because the knit fabric was too heavy for the warming weather. It was almost perfect for today when I had occasion to wear it to appear in traffic court to beg for mercy for my very first e.v.e.r. speeding ticket. The judge did give me mercy, but in this state, that entails an 8-hour driving school course. At least I'll still have a pristine record. My mail carrier was in traffic court as well - don't you just love small town life??? Julie is a great gal and we agreed to attend driving school together. She got a speeding ticket while delivering mail on her rural route. Talk about having a bad day at work!

The jacket is made in the same knit but - - - I forget which pattern. I'll have to look it up and edit this post later. It came out perfectly and I'm thrilled with it.

I drafted the skirt using the tutorial by Jennifer Sterns called How to Draft a One-Seam Skirt in 30 Minutes. I've made this in 3 renditions and love them all. I'd like to add a back kick slit to this pattern.

The two other renditions are below:

The faces skirt is a knit I found at Waechter's. It was too wacky to refuse. I added a band of doubled double-knit at the bottom to weigh down the very thin and light-weight faces knit, though I did not line it. I've worn it a few times and not one person has given me feedback yay or nay. Maybe you can see the purple lips if you double click to get a larger image.

The green stripe is linen. I think I bought that at Hancock's.

Next up are my two favorite skirts made with McCalls 7316, view C. I bought the fabric, same fabric in different colorways, at Kashi's Metro Textile during my trip to NYC last spring. It's a stretch canvas of some sort and is extremely comfy to wear. Yes, the fabric is a bit heavy, but with the a-line, it didn't matter because there was plenty of air circulation. Buttons bought at M&J Trims.

The next is a zebra strip poly I bought at our local quilt shop. I had promised to buy a bit of it if Jeanine bought a bolt and so I kept my promise (hoping she'll get in more fashion fabric). I had made this pattern previously: McCalls 5430, but instead of the bow tie at the waist, I used a button closure. I got the idea for that from a review I had read (lest anyone think I'm that smart). The fabric is light as air so I needed to weight the edge down and bound it with some stretch black poly knit. I stretched it a bit near the bottom and, as you can see, it twists a bit. It's not so bad when I'm wearing it as it has movement and isn't quite so noticeable. I don't like to wear my fall colors (browns, blacks) during the summer, so this didn't get any wear, but I will be wearing it in the upcoming weeks, I'm sure. Since we are past Labor Day, summer colors are waning and fall colors acceptable. And since our days are still warm, this skirt will work well.

Last photo of the day is me now, after that whirlwind raid of my closet to show you some things. The t-shirt is Pamela's Patterns and one of the first I made. It seems subsequent tops I've made with that pattern don't fit me as well. And I can't figure out why! I won't give up, however. This top is comfy!

Filling in the Gap

2010-09-16T05:52:00.005-04:00

I have ignored my blog. And, evidently, you who have checked in on me. I had no idea anyone was interested in me or my blog until I received word today that, yes, indeed, someone has looking in on me to see what I've been doing. (Waving Hi to she who sent me a kind note!)

It has been an advent-filled summer. I went "home" to upstate NY for a wedding in July. I wore an outfit I made and felt lovely (but not nearly as lovely as the bride!). I'll have to model my outfit for you. We took the opportunity while in NY to pack the house and put our things into storage. I purged most of our worldly belongings and only regret tossing my old jello molds. Such an odd thing to regret and since they are the only things I do regret, the purge was a great success, don't you think?

I have been living in southern VA for over a year. My husband had been down here nearly 3 years and "commuting" back north to visit. He moved here to build a manufacturing plant and the state of Virginia wanted his business, so here we are. It is a privilege to provide American made product and to provide jobs for the wonderful people here in rural Virginia. The plant is doing well and growing - we are up to two shifts and a second line is being built with hopes that it will be online soon. Prayers for success and growth would be welcome!

We have two college-aged children who were still using (and needing) the home base up north while attending school, so we were unable to close out the house until now. They moved here with me a year ago last spring after my husband was diagnosed with CLL - Chronic Lymphatic Leukemia - two years ago. The greatest outward symptom of this type of disease is fatigue. The commute north got to be too much for him, besides, he needed his family full-time and so we each dropped what we were doing, packed a suitcase, and joined him here. We're now fully settled with the kids in schools down here - one at a local college so he can also work with his dad at the plant (and loving it), the other at a university 3 hours away (and working at the plant during school breaks) - close enough to come home and visit on occasion.

Meanwhile, I sew. Not quite. I prepare to sew. After returning from the great house purge, I found a Necchi Nora on Craigslist in a nearby city. I am thrilled with her.

Isn't she lovely? This is after cleaning decades of grime. She had been lovingly used for decades by a woman who sewed upholstery. You can see the yellowing in the paint from those years of use. I have been told I might be able to buff it out with Minwax. I'll be trying that. Nora came with lots of feet but her cams are missing.

Nora's cabinet was tired. Sturdy but ugly. See? A typical used sewing cabinet.

I feel Nora needs a throne worthy of her. So I set about making that happen. I lightly sanded the throne. But then thought it needed a deeper sanding so I did that. And then I primed. But when old red finish oozed through the primer (turning my paint brush red), I knew I was in trouble. I sat and looked at the mess for a week. I decided to add primer to the latex paint and try a coat of that. I only made the mess worse....and red still oozed through. Nora needed her throne. I need to sew. Tears were in order.

I decided to try oil based paint. What was there to loose at this point? I chose a pink to match the Nora (although I wanted a light gray) with the hope that if the red continued to ooze, it wouldn't be as noticeable. I got high gloss so that fabrics would glide more readily.

Finally! Success and no ugly red ooze. Which makes me wish I'd tried the gray. Ah well. I will post a photo soon. The throne is still out in the garage where it will stay until I determine the paint is fully cured.

I wanted new handles - I do have all four but they are tarnished and disgustingly dirty. I had visions of something feminine and beautiful. A trip to the store indicated that these 1959 Italian made handles have a 1.5 inch span between screws. Newer handles have a much larger span. I am unwilling to drill holes so painting the handles seemed a likely compromise. In the process of cleaning, they revealed a pink patina! I returned the spray paint and will use them as is. I think they will be perfect and will give the throne a regal air of antiquity.

I need to find fabric to cover the seat. I have no clue what I'd like. I'll know it when I see it.

I shopped the Labor Day fabric sales online. I used the Nora to zigzag the edges prior to washing. What a dream! What speed (there's a fast switch)! What precision!

Sew anxious!

"You look happier"

2010-07-11T23:34:00.002-04:00

My neighbor hasn't seen me in 16 months. I'm back home after being away for that long - and am only home for a few weeks to pack the house to move permanently out of state.

My neighbor had stopped by to greet my husband and I and attributed my "looking happier" to being united with my husband who had been working out of state for several years.

But I know the truth (not that I don't love my husband, mind you). I had just shared it with my girlfriend who had come to greet me earlier in the day. I had told Terri about the good bra fitting and how it makes me look skinnier - I have lost a bit of weight since I've been gone, but not THAT much. As we have come to discover, a good bra gives one a waistline.

So it isn't that I am happier, it's that I'm better situated.

Focusing

2010-04-25T20:15:00.002-04:00

In the last month, I've made a couple of things which I don't love. They are both skirts with elastic waists: one in a quilting cotton, one in a polyester zebra stripe (to which I added a ruffle).

I'm kicking myself because I like the zebra stripe fabric but I didn't like the pattern I used and should have slowed down and chosen a different pattern to use. Kick. Kick. Kick.

Because of this disappointment, I have decided to rethink how I do things. More planning needs to be involved. I want to be more deliberate and artistic in my designing. I don't need to make fancy things or elaborate things, just good, well-done things. I need to learn to listen to my heart as well.

I did make a green and white stripped linen skirt I'm very happy with. I made this using an online tutorial by Jennifer Stern: How to Draft a One Seam Skirt in 30 Minutes. This tutorial was wonderful and included a darted waistline which took away fabric bulkiness. I made a paper pattern and plan to make more of these cute skirts. (If you make one, be sure to add side seam allowances to the tutorial's instructions.)

Today, I completed another skit, a wrap skirt which I have wanted for quite awhile. I used McCall's 5430 (which I got along with 10 other McCall's patterns last week for 99 cents each at Hancock's!). I eliminated the side tie because I usually don't tuck in my shirts and who wants a knotted tie under a shirt? Instead, I opted to sew a couple of buttons for the closure. I used a pink cotton fabric that looks like it was meant for upholstery (and probably was) which I got in a free bundle from Fabric Mart. I never thought I'd use this fabric but I'm extremely pleased with this skirt. I envision more skirts made with this pattern in a variety of fabrics but I think I'll extend the overlapping top piece just a few more inches.

That makes this month's tally: 4 skirts, two I like, two I don't, and a renewed vision for future projects.

Photos of skirts coming sometime this week.

6-Piece Spring Sew Along Completed

2010-03-29T13:48:00.003-04:00

Not sure how well it all flows together as a traditional SWAP would, but I like the pieces and have worn all so far except for the top with the large collar and bow (that needs a warm day).

As always, off to contemplate the next project(s).

RTW Beaded Top

2010-03-23T20:17:00.003-04:00

This top gave me the idea to bead a shirt - which is shown in the previous post.

Upon close inspection of this top, I noticed just how
-intricate the beading is
-the numerous types of beads used
-that several of these beads should be dry-clean only (the mother of pearl and metallic ones). I've washed this shirt numerous times - and am starting to get tiny rust stains on the top.
-just how GOOD the beading is - and I wonder if tiny hands of slave labor did the sewing
-that only the front has a facing - and it is tacked down with just a few stitches (shown in a photo)
-that the back neckline is finished with binding instead of a facing

Beaded Top

2010-03-22T18:25:00.011-04:00

I used the same pattern [New Look 6808] to make an off-white knit top as in my last post. I used the 3/4 length sleeve, which has a slit cuff and a plain scoop neckline (I just left off the collar).

I added embellishment to the neckline with beads. I brought my top to a local bead shop and within 10 minutes, the very helpful gal had me all set up with a handful of beads. She was able to lead me away from beads which should never be washed (mother of pearl) or those that would rust or break easily. She knew her stock! And she was very encouraging and empowering.

I spent a few nights playing with bead layouts. Taking photos and studying the layouts through a lens helped identify layouts with issues. I'll have to remember that for future reference. I think it was taking a step back and looking at the layout as a whole was what brought to light ideas that looked good, or those which were too overdone.

I ended up beading the neckline twice. The first time I used poly thread that, upon first wash to wash out marker markings, the threads had stretched! So I resewed the whole top (and deleted a motif I didn't care for) using clear nylon thread. I made sure to knot almost every bead. After one wearing and another washing, one bead fell off (a large one) so I ran a second line of nylon thread through all the beads, knotting at each bead again. Loosing that one bead would have unraveled the whole shebang if I hadn't been so diligently knotting away!

So, pictures! Please do give me an honest assessment. Your comments will help me determine future plans. I would like to do more beading - but I need to figure out what thread to use - and I'd like to do more subtle beading, using the same color bead as the fabric.

Here is a photo of the first beading with the motif I left off during the second beading attempt. It was too crowded and not really necessary. You can also see that in my second beading (photos above) I corrected some of the wonkiness of the circle beads - which were very difficult to work with!

One last photo with he-who-loves-to-be-held (black dog, white knit top - not a good marriage, dear!)....which has a bit of a better image of the broomstick skirt (bought at Cracker Barrel a couple of weeks ago) which I matched the beads to. I wore the outfit with a dark jean jacket (RTW - I've yet to tackle form-fitted jackets and flat-felled seams) the other day and felt quite ready for spring. Someone explain to me why it is snowing as I type here in southern Virginia on March 22.

White Tie Top

2010-03-05T21:16:00.006-05:00

New Look 6808, View E (the brown on the top, right) -

I love this linen-like fabric. It has a fine hand and feels lovely. I wanted to make something with this that would serve me well this spring and summer.

I made one muslin. Changes I made:
-Broad back adjustment, one inch on the pattern piece (two inches total)
-Petited the upper front bodice about 3/4 inch
-Changed the direction of the dart (I'm liking french darts)
-FBA 1 3/4 inch spread
-Changed the location of both front and back fish eye darts - I think I moved them outward an inch or two, front and back
-Shortened the back fish eye darts about 1.5 inches (to accommodate the broad back adjustment)

Mistakes I made:
- I followed instructions for applying the front and back facings rather than the collar (duh moment!). I debated leaving the shirt as it was and adding beading to the neckline - but decided I could do that in a different fabric because I really wanted the broad collar on this top. So last night I spent over an hour very carefully unpicking the tiny stitches.

Tweaks to the pattern:
- Today I placed the collar but I did not follow pattern instructions. They seemed bulky - and included adding the unpicked facings. I simply lined up the seam edges, sewed my 5/8 inch seam allowance and flipped the collar to the right side. This left raw edges under the collar - which I finished off with a hong-kong binding due to the unraveling tendency of the fabric. I think the hong-kong finishing, even though using a very fine silk, adds a bit too much bulk under the collar. But I don't think it would be noticeable to the average layperson when I wear it.

-I finished off the armholes with self-fabric bias strips. I could have turned under the armhole, but I needed the extra width on the sleeves to hide my bra straps - which sit wide on my shoulders.

The top is a bit loose, I oped to NOT insert a side zipper because there is a wee bit of stretch in the fabric. I also don't mind the wee bit extra width because this is designed to be worn in warm/hot weather and the extra ease will be welcome on hot days.

I think this is a versatile top which will get much use.

The only thing is.....it is difficult to find something to wear over a wide-collared top. My San Diego jacket does not look good with this. Perhaps a simple RTW cardigan will fit under the collar. I'll have to try that tomorrow.

I plan to make an the same top with the same scooped neckline, but without the wide collar and bow. I hope to embellish it with beads. I think I'll add a back zip for that top to make it a bit more fitted...unless I decide to use a knit, in which case I'll grade down the side seams and deepen the darts. I have several fabric choices on hand.

ETA: The markings were done with thread tracing - not an easy feat due to four fish eye darts and the bust darts. I was terrified to add chalk or marker to this fabric in fear that it would never wash out. I was pleasantly surprised with how well the thread tracing worked at the pinning and sewing stages - but the tracing stage was mind-boggling!

This makes garment number 4 in my 6-pack wee spring swap.

No Longer Swimming in San Diego

2010-02-27T13:44:00.003-05:00

I have tweaked the jacket - I think successfully.

After showing the issues I had with the San Diego jacket, I spent the next week or so ill. Illness slowed my thought processes to a crawl - which was a good thing for this jacket's survival. I was able to really think through what was needed and how I was going to accomplish those goals.

First line of business: unpick the shoulder seam only partway (due to the curve in the neckline which turns into the collar) in order to place a dart at the front. I normally need to make a 1 3/4 (one and three quarter) inch FBA so I couldn't skimp on the size of the dart. I had plenty of ease to accomplish the large, needed, dart. I simply folded out the dart(3/4 inches on each leg - for a total of 1.5 inches) in the seam allowance and then top stitched the dart down to help it lay flat following the vertical lines in the material. (No forming the typical triangle bust dart.)

Before attempting this alteration, I used a disappearing marker to mark the original shoulder seam line on the front, back and sleeve seams. It was just a matter of tracing over the stitching line before starting to pick anything apart. I did this to give me a point of reference.

After taking in the dart from the front, it was just a matter of pinching out an equal amount of material from the back and sleeve (without unpicking the existing seam) and sewing around the shoulder seam....matching the seam I had already unpicked on the front piece to a new seam allowance I drew with a disappearing pen. It really was quite easy, though I think I'm butchering the explanation. I was easily able to cut off the excess seam allowances.

To take in the sides and sleeves, I tediously unpicked those seams and pinned to fit.

I was unhappy with the wonky front facing popping out, so I top stitched it down at the front edges and decided to also top stitch it at the inside facing edge to give added structure which the fabric required. I debated sewing vertical seams at each stripe within the facing, but decided that would be overkill.

I finished the inside raw seams with a hong kong finish (darn, forgot to take those pictures!).

I re-hemmed the jacket and sleeves.

I'm happy with how I managed to salvage this jacket. I think I'll be wearing it this spring - it does add warmth and will cut the chill from the air.

I doubt I'll be making another Sewing Workshop pattern for quite awhile.

Oh, one more thing. I did not wear the jacket with that skirt. The jacket it loose and large, so I think it requires a fitted bottom or a pencil skirt. The skirt shown in the photos is a-line. Too much bulk and width from top to bottom when worn together!

Progress on my Wee Spring 2010 SWAP

2010-02-25T22:43:00.007-05:00

I altered my SWAP plan from needing clothes for Florida to needing some items for a convention I attended with my husband last week.

I finished a pencil skirt (out of the brown silk noil) which I wore on Thursday. Super comfy and a great choice. I lined the skirt and am very happy with it. I made the a-line version of this pattern previously, but this time I decided the fabric determined it needed to be more fitted so I opted for the pencil version. I think it was a good choice. I was surprised that this skirt took as long to make as it did: a good 10 to 12 hours! Either I'm a perfectionist or I need to learn to work a bit faster.

I also completed a skirt which was not on my original plan. It is a stretch jean-type material which I noticed had a rather unique fringe on the cut edge. Even though the stretch ran the wrong way, I decided to use the fringe effect as a design element. I wore this skirt Friday. I used the same pattern as the above skirt, but I traced a new pattern and cut it apart to form two seams in the front and back which I would fringe, as well as traditional side seams (not fringed). I made this skirt a bit longer because of the vertical lines of the fringe. This skirt is comfy and warm. I did have a bit of an issue with the stretch running up and down, rather than across. I also had issue with the side zipper because of the hip curve. I only unpicked it once in order to take in about an inch off the side seam - on both sides in order to keep the symmetry. I'm not sure why this version ran large - it must have been an error in mathematics when I accounted for extra seam allowances. I'll have to think about it (later!).

Making of the fringe seams:

And a wadder: I also made a top out of the patterned stretch fabric, with 3/4 sleeves and a rather high neckline. While the shirt only took an hour or so to make, start to finish, as this is a TNT pattern, it looks HORRID on me. The fit is fine. The sewing is good. It's just that the fabric: blah! And it would have been such a cute outfit, too. I love the colors - but I think I've confirmed that I'm a plain jane. I need to stick with simplicity. I'll have to remember to take a photo of this shirt so you won't think I'm exaggerating!

So far, for my 6-piece SWAP, I've completed:
Jacket
Brown Skirt
Jean Skirt

I will not count the shirt that doesn't work since I won't be wearing it. (Darn! I was hoping to use that yardage for two tops!) I need to come up with three alternative tops and I'm a bit stumped as to what I will make. I have several lovely off-white pieces of yardage - but two are woven and I've not yet perfected an FBA on a woven pattern.

San Diego Jacket - My first garment in my Wee Little Spring SWAP

2010-02-11T14:33:00.010-05:00

The San Diego Jacket from Sewing Workshop.

Happiness:
-the fabric (from Waechter's). It's a perfect weight for spring. I get chilly in air conditioning and this will add just the right weight of warmth.

-the sewing of it. It was a tad difficult in the collar/shoulder but a good challenge for me (it would have been easier with a less open-weave fabric)

UnHappiness:
-it was too large on first blush. I fell between sizes and chose the larger one (size large) based on hip and waist measurement. Since my upper bust measurement was a size medium, but I have a full-bust, I thought choosing the large size would be wise. Not.
-I neglected to add an FBA. It is a loose fitting jacket and I just didn't think I needed one.
-the sleeves are very wide. I took in a dart at the wrist and added a button embellishment (which I like).

New Happiness:
-Hong Kong seams!

This fabric would have just kept unraveling and unraveling until the seams were involved. I double stitched each seam using a small sized stitch as well as zig-zagging each edge. But it was still unraveling. So I took a lovely light-weight silk and made a Hong-Kong finish on most exposed seams.

They aren't quite as even as they should be, but I'm blaming that on the unraveling which was already occurring, which caused me to swerve my straight seems in order to catch good fabric rather than frayed fabric.

Here are a couple of photos of the jacket as it stands today. I hope to alter it to fit a bit better.

Story Board Trial

2010-02-05T19:56:00.005-05:00

A bit difficult to see. I've tried using a new program to me paint.net. Using an easy method, I simply posted photos of fabrics with the patterns I'm thinking of using.

I plan two phases of sewing, completing a few items for a basic 6-piece wardrobe before heading into phase two.

Phase One:
Starting at the top row: the left off-white jacket and middle brown vest (which still needs interfacing and a lovely silk lining).

The second row are tops: an off-white silky tunic, a patterned fabric which I plan to use for TWO tops (one shell, one with 3/4 sleeves), and a plain off white knit top.

The next line are skirts. One I plan to make in phase one: a brown silk noil (on the left).
The blue knit is already made and will coordinate with the solid tops.

That makes 7 garments for phase one - giving me one more than the 6 I really need - and room to wiggle if something doesn't work out as planned.

Phase Two
Phase two will be a bit more fun!
I'll add a white jacket with funky buttons.

I'll add a couple more skirts: a solid off-white, a solid rust knit and a funky "faces" skirt. I'm still undecided about the off-white skirt as I usually like my bottoms to be darker colors. But this is speaking to me, so I just might make it up.

I also hope to make the floral pink skirt with deep pint knit top during this second phase.

Now that it is photographed and on a board, it gives me a great outline instead of sewing haphazardly. I'm looking forward to starting but starting is proving to be difficult due to some new medication I'm taking which is making me loopy and sleepy. I'm not trusting my judgment or coordination. But I've got everything pre-washed and ready to go as soon as I feel a bit better.

Loes Hinse Morphed Jumper

2010-02-04T20:06:00.009-05:00

I did this the difficult way because I didn't realize Loes sold a tunic pattern, line drawing shown below.

I took Loes' Sweater set, shown here:

and tweaked a pattern using the shell as a base, altering it a bit overlaying the cardigan's proportions and sleeves, and voila. My own tunic pattern. Adding length and side slits, I ended up with this:

Here's a view of the back:

And now for the could have/should have/would haves:
1. I should have added a back seam
2. I should have added a back zipper
3. I should have added a bit more wearing ease across the hips.
4. The side slits are a wee too high.

Here's a sweater I made using Kwik Sew 3693, view A. I love this pattern because there isn't too much fabric, as it seems similar patterns use. I don't feel like I'm swimming in folds. I originally added 3 inches in length, but ended up cutting most of that out as it was too long for my frame. I also shorted the sleeves (a tad too much). I think I'll be making view B when I find a suitable fabric.

Meanwhile, here's my rendition, made in a chocolate, rather slinky knit with ribbing.

I made these things in December, but am just now getting around to photographing the outfit, which I wore today.

Next up: A wearable muslin of a purple knit cowl neck top for a pattern which I'm planning on using for my wee little SWAP. I'll save that for the next post.

Tonight I hope to finalize my wee little swap plans, fabrics with patterns and sewing order.

My Own SWAP

2010-01-28T17:07:00.007-05:00

I need coordinating outfits. I'm having a difficult time pulling things out of the closet that I want to wear together. Perhaps it's the "I'm tired of winter and want to wear spring things" season.

Perhaps I should consider joining the Stitcher's Guild SWAP, but I'm a big chicken so I'll be having my own wee SWAP (sewing with a purpose). Besides, I didn't plan this until last week and only bought the bulk of my fabric two days ago....

....at my first visit to Waechter's.

What a great shop! I found exactly what I needed - thanks to the help of the fine staff.

I'm hoping to turn these ....

....into two San Diego Jackets from Sewing Workshop. Buttons are not finalized.

This rather bizarre knit caught my eye. (Notice the purple lips.)

I bought just enough to make a skirt. This skirt needs to have only one seam to maximize the effect of the faces. I found a tutorial by Jennifer Stern on Craftstylish describing how to do that in such a way as to shape the skirt, explaining how to measure and add effective darts as needed.

I'll wear it with the bright white jacket and a black (or white) tee or tank.

The almost white, blue and rust fabrics are knit. The brown is a silk noil.
Last week I made a navy blue, knit, a-line skirt that needs coordinating tops. I hope to use some of these knits to fulfill that need. The navy skirt can be worn with either jacket (assuming the styles look good together).

I'll most likely make a sweater set (cardigan plus shell) with the off white knit, which has a sturdy hand. I'd like to embellish the cardigan with a self-flower, removable pin...with colorful beading in the center. This knit could also handle being a skirt - so that will probably happen, although I prefer darker colors for "bottoms". I think a light skirt does have a place in my SWAP.

I had to look up "silk noil." Silk Road Textile Merchants had a great description: Silk Noil (sometimes incorrectly called raw silk) has a nubby feel and a low sheen. Noil somewhat resembles cotton in surface texture, and sews easily. The nubby texture of noil comes from the use of very short fibers (called, appropriately, 'silk noils') to weave the fabric. When these short fibers are spun into yarns, the resulting yarns have occasional slubs and loose ends. Nubs vary between different weaves.

I love this fabric and will make a skirt with it. This skirt will coordinate with either jacket or sweater set. I'd like to experiment with making the seams a bit deconstructed. I think the nubby look of the fabric would suit a bit of whimzy.

In addition to these garments, I have plans for another skirt made with a gold-tone tweed as well as a couple of nicer tops made with woven fabrics.

The patterned fabric below (from G Street) will coordinate with the brown skirt, off-white skirt, both jacket and the cardigan. I'm not exactly sure what pattern I'll use. I have enough to make a tank plus 3/4 sleeve top.

These should round out the SWAP and give me quite a few options when gazing into the closet on a still chilly morning when my heart is yearning for spring.

2010 is Here

2010-01-07T15:13:00.013-05:00

I wrote this the first week of January and became frustrated with a slow computer - which has now been replaced (yeah!) and frustrated with posting photos to the blog. Am I doing something wrong? When I upload a photo, it appears at the top of my entry and I must drag, drag, drag it to where I want it. Soooo time consuming.

Anyway, today I will conquer the aggravation.

Twenty-ten.
Such an awe-inspiring number. It brings me hope.
Just imagine if we were marking ten-twenty....
My times are in His hands, as the Psalmist says (31:15).

I have been sewing.
Sewing and learning.
Making some wearable garments.
Some not so wearable.

I have been sewing.
Sewing and learning.
Making some wearable garments.
Some not-so-wearable.
I'm identifying a style of comfort.
I wrote this the first week of January and became frustrated with a slow computer - which has now been replaced (yeah!) and frustrated with posting photos to the blog. Am I doing something wrong? When I upload a photo, it appears at the top of my entry and I must drag, drag, drag it to where I want it. Soooo time consuming.

Anyway, today I will conquer the aggravation.

Twenty-ten.
Such an awe-inspiring number. It brings me hope.
Just imagine if we were marking ten-twenty....
My times are in His hands, as the Psalmist says (31:15).

I have been sewing.
Sewing and learning.
Making some wearable garments.
Some not-so-wearable.
I'm identifying a style of comfort.

I like blogs with pictures.
Pictures and tutorials.
At least I can supply pics!

Fabrics wonderful fabrics!
These are a few of my acquisitions.

October Acquisitions from Fabric Mart(Left to right)

Vera Wang burnt orange jersey knit.
I like the color, not so much the fabric. I tried to draft a cowl neck top using online tutorials, but the cowl didn't drape enough even after two attempts (one on a different top/fabric). I'll rework the neckline to make a sleeveless top for spring so the shirt will not become a wadder.

Cocoa Linen.

Waiting for a project. Perhaps a vest, view B (bottom, right).

Eggshell Poly Blend Ponte Knit
I worked this into a plain, but very versatile sleeveless shell as well as the top in the photo below.

Ralph Lauren Wool Cashmere Angora Weave.
I made this into a tunic [Butterick 5100]. This pattern calls for knit fabric, but I figured that with the generous neckline opening and simple shape, I could easily slip it over my head without a zipper if I added a little bit of extra ease. I added too much width and ended up cutting two inches off the front and back to make it look less like a potato sack. It still slides on easily.

I'm finding this wool sheds a bit and has been pilling. Nonetheless, it is my warmest, go-to outfit of this very cold season and the shedding is less noticeable if I wear a dark turtleneck instead of a light shirt.

I did not line the tunic because I wanted the warmth of the wool close to my body. And with this bitterly cold winter, it turned out being a wise choice! I cut a faux-suede trim for the neckline binding (instead of creating a facing) which turned out a little wonky. I should unpick it and hand-stitch it down.

Notice the scarf? I hand roll-hemmed this piece of yardage to make a wearable scarf. I love the rich colors.

I made the three major pieces of this outfit worn Christmas Day. (And I was sooo comfortable!)

With this order from Fabric Mart came a complimentary "Mystery Bundle" of approximately 10 yards of material (shown below). The fabrics are lovely but I'm not sure they will be added to my wardrobe. Perhaps some can be used for embellishment. Perhaps summer time will inspire me to wear a pink/circled skirt or purple - - - purple - - - purple tank, perhaps? The multi-colored fabric is quite puzzling. I think it needs to be drapes. In someone else's home.

Visits to family in the DC area over both Thanksgiving and Christmas holidays,

meant shopping the sales a G Street!

Thanksgiving Acquisitions from G Street

Brown Corduroy with black undertones. I made a lined skirt. [McCall's 3341].

Not pictured are pieces bought for lining and a couple of lengths of wool they had listed as "skirt lengths" for $6 each.

I also scrounged among their remnants for pieces I can use as embellishment and came home with a few goodies.

Christmas Acquisitions from G Street
(The three on the left were from the "Back Wall.")

Awaiting transformation....
The patterned fabric is a stretch poly of some sort. It has a diamond weave texture which makes it quite interesting. I imagine tank and short sleeve tops and/or using this as an embellishment for cuffs and neckline.

The black fabric - quite black though not showing that way in this photo) and red fabric are also poly with interesting textures. I imagine making the red into a princess-lined sheath with 3/4 length sleeves, pattern number[New Look 6909] . I need to learn the technique for altering an FBA into the princess seams.

The brown/black wool is darker than in the photo. I adore this fabric, but it was precious (even with 40% off) so I only bought 1 1/4 yards (cut generously because there was a 4 x 6 inch sample previously cut - don't you love that?). I'll most likely turn this into another warm tunic, this time with a zipper because there is much less give than in the Ralph Lauren wool above.

Acquiring a Style
My style.
Discovering what makes me feel comfortable both in comfort and beauty.

My style is classic, though not restrictive in movement.
I have no need to wear suits at this stage in life, but I love unstructured jackets and adore skirts.
I'm wearing my skirts shorter because they look better than the longer ones I am used to wearing, but I do miss long, floppy, comfy ones (which I think make me look frumpy).
I find I like solid, but textured, fabrics. I imagine making them up with a touch of embellishment or interesting seaming.

I haven't joined the Stitcher's Guild SWAP (sewing with a plan) but I have a mini-wardrobe planned for spring:

two skirts
coordinating jacket (or two)
sweater set (cardigan with matching shell)
tops
linen vest

I am LOVING this sewing adventure and thank the many many bloggers who post tutorials and photo journals of their work. Your work has inspired and encouraged me!

Here's to 2010!

*Fonts are unresponsive. I typed the wonky sections over in my chosen font - but lost the formatting after editing out a strange triplicate posting of the content. Ack. I think I need to find a more user-friendly blog site.

Red Wool Skirt

2009-11-15T13:20:00.004-05:00

That's not my belly hanging over the top of the skirt! It's just the unfortunate way I was trying to hold my top out of the way. (Really!)

I am pleased with this skirt, Simplicity 9825.

I trusted the measurements on the pattern and cut out the proper size (16) even though it seemed way too large. It fits like a glove. Which makes me wonder if I'm really that large!

The yoke is comfortable and sits perfectly, though I really thought I wouldn't like a skirt without an elastic waist.

I hand-picked the invisible zipper. It's not great. I'll need to get a picture of it to post later. I tend to insert zippers too high - I'll need to make a mental note to adjust that tendency next time.

The skirt is unlined, only because I didn't have any suitable lining (and didn't want to wait until I had the time to drive the 45 minutes to the nearest fabric store - Hancock's). I'll insert a lining next time.

I think I'll be making more of these skirts in a variety of fabric.

2009-10-04T14:42:00.013-04:00

Since my last posting, I have worked hard at making waders! Such discouragement! And that is why there have been no posts for so long.

I went to work figuring out why they were waders.
Mostly, I chose the wrong styles and colors.

Not all was lost as I learned a bit of technique.
I can adjust patterns to fit me - broad back, sway back, petite, fba.
I can make a pretty good dart.

Here is a top which is not quite right, but not a wader: NewLook 6356, view A (which is the black floral). [Double clicking a picture enlarges it.]

This is a gauze top that fits fairly well. I had to tweak the neckline - to be a bit lower - and I should have excluded the zipper. I didn't realize gauze has quite a generous amount of stretch. That was a "duh" moment. The gauze is also too fragile to hold a zip - I should pick out the zipper and simply sew up the seam. (Think I'll do that this afternoon while football is on the telly.)

After this, I switched from sewing wovens to trying my hand at knits.

Knits!
Wonderful knits!
I've read that some people are afraid to touch knits.
But I'm having great success with them. This is probably due to the rather large FBA with small waist that I have. I need to gain experience and confidence to do what I need to do: pinch in that waist (so that I don't look like I'm wearing a moo moo).

I find that due to the stretch characteristic of knits, I don't need such a large FBA. A small bust dart seems to suffice.

I started sewing with cotton blend knits.

My first try was a cross over. Kwi k Sew 2694, view A. I loved how easily this came together. After a couple of wearings - and after making a few other tops, I realized I needed to take in the side seams and did so. I also took in the underlayer of the crossover so that it fit more snuggly to avoid neckline gapping. Since this was my first knit, I used my standard large FBA. Such a long dart!

(I am just too lazy to iron and try on clothes right now!)

I ordered Pamela's Patt erns "The Perfect T-Shirt" pattern. I exchanged a few emails with Pamela (such a sweet lady!) and she offered me a new DVD, which I see is now available on her website. I highly recommend this DVD for new sewers. Watching Pamela lay out the knit in preparation for sewing (while breezily chatting about what she is doing) was only one of the many helpful things Pamela includes in the lesson.

A white "Perfect T."

I made the version with darts. There is an undarted version for those who don't need a bust dart.

Compare the length of this dart with the length of the darts on the purple top above. Such a difference!

I took in the sides, as Pamela suggested in her instructions, and took the sides in again. You can't see from this picture, but the hemline has a beautiful and flattering feminine curve.

I tried a rayon/lycra blend - good success, but had a bit of skipped stitches so switched from using ballpoint needles to stretch needles. Less skipped stitches, but still not perfect. I'm wondering if it is due to my machine. I don't have a serger, so stitching is done with a very narrow zig-zag. I made this top in a "V" neck. I have worn this top several times.

My next project was Loes Hinse sweater set in white. I love the look of this set and the way the stitching plays a large part of the interest. I have to confess that I did not put any buttons on the cardigan....though I would like to put in just one buttonhole near the neckline. I've not yet made any buttonholes! The shell is too short in the front due to my FB. In future versions, I will add a couple of inches to the center front, tapering to the sides.

Here's my latest: I took Loes Hinse' sweater set, combined the shell with the cardigan, added a center back seam (to adjust a sway back), and made a deep "v" neck pullover with a 3/4 inch sleeve. This fits beautifully except that the darts can use a bit of adjusting. I will be making this top in a variety of fabrics with several tweaked effects.

As I was writing this blog post, I noticed on Loes' website a "V Neck Tunic." My tunic. The one I spent hours making a pattern for.

Well, now I know I can. I can imagine and make it reality.

My basic sewing techniques include:
- I use a narrow zig-zag for seams
- I use Steam-a-Seam Lite for turning neckline seams and sometimes on hems
- I use stay tape stabilizer on shoulder seams (being sure to sew it to the back shoulder piece because I find it itchy if it contacts my skin)
- I use stretch needles
- I take my time. My attitude has shifted from "hurry, get this done" to "enjoy the process." This has made a huge difference in producing successful garments. I'm glad I learned this early in my sewing renewal.

I have spent hours watching online tutorials and reading sewing blogs. The generosity of those who take the time to teach others is amazing! Videos which show the sewist handling fabric at the machine has helped me tremendously. Thank you all!

Long Purple Skirt Now Restyled

2009-07-03T15:05:00.006-04:00

BEFORE:

AFTER (I had forgotten how much this fabric wrinkles. I had JUST pressed it.)

In addition to shortening the skirt, I had to take it in from the back and side seams. Taking it in from the back was a chore because of the elastic back waist. It doesn't look 100%, but I will enjoy wearing it with an untucked top.

June Top

2009-07-02T23:06:00.008-04:00

I made this top: Vogue 8495, View A, using a white cotton I bought at G-Street. It has a wee stretch, which is so comfortable, so I used a very slight zig-zag stitch to accomodate the stretch. This technique worked very well, though I was skeptical at first.

I added an inch to the back and front width after making a muslin. I need to figure out how to choose the correct size pattern. It might be the correct thing to use the size I do (based on upper bust measurement) and add that extra inch. I don't know at this point. Adding the inch certainly made the neckline a tad too large.

I made an FBA using the original technique I learned. The bust dart is L.O.N.G at 6 1/2 inches from side seam to point. I have since found an alternative method of forming the FBA which I will use in a future project, which should cut down on the length.

I had to tweak the top of the bodice: the bust darts sat too low on my chest. I unstitched the basting at the yoke line and hitched up the front bodice about half an inch. It took away the pull across the bust and now the bust darts sit where they belong.

Also in my learning curve was the need to unpick the armholes. I had neglected to clip the curved seams and so the seams sat all wonky.

I used a stretch stitch to finish the seams which worked out very well. I also worked on my dart formation technique. I think I did fairly well. I cut off much of the seam allowance - it was very deep - then I finished it up to an inch or so from the point using the same stitch as I used for the seams.

Two Skirts

2009-07-02T22:45:00.007-04:00

I made a blue floral skirt using Simplicity 2609 (View D).

The rayon I used was an experience! It would not hold its shape at all - either during cutting or layout. I probably should have used fusible interfacing on the elastic waist sections. Instead, I chose to underline it. The underlining helped, but the rayon was so stretchy that it puckered and sagged. It looked awful after final construction.

I finally cut the bottom edge of the underlining and loosely hand-stitched it to the horizontal seam to allow the fashion fabric to lay flat without puckering. It was much better, though not perfect.

I allowed the skirt to hang for a day before hemming. I'm glad I did because the stretch on the fabric became quite evident. Hemming such an uneven skirt was a chore. I have added this to my wish list: http://www.joann.com/joann/catalog.jsp?CATID=cat3423&PRODID=prd10486

I left the skirt long. This is one of those skirts that are soft, blow in the breeze and feels lovely while swishing. I would wear it tonight to a barbecue, but it is just a tad too cool today.

The other skirt I finished just last night. It is a pink paisley made in Simplicity 4881, view A.

I wish I could report that this was a straight forward skirt to make. Even though I measured, it was too tight in the waist, so I had to cut off the elastic waistband, cut off another inch from the top, and FINALLY was able to slip the skirt over my hips. I unpicked an inch of side seams and hand stitched them to form the little gusset (perhaps gusset isn't the correct term) to accommodate the shape of the elastic. It wasn't difficult, just not "quick-n-easy." I sewed a lining, which I attached only under the elastic, and only sewed the side part-way down the side seams to allow movement.

I love this skirt. It doesn't look like much, but it is soft and has just the right amount of movement in the A-line.

Oh, almost forgot: I sewed the side seams in french seams. I think that's my new favorite seam technique! So easy to accomplish an so tidy and neat on the inside.