Olive Green Border One-Seam Skirt ala Jennifer Sterns

 

Two loves. Olive Green. Border.

The border is a misprint and ran on the cross grain. The bolt was printed in the lighter color, however, when I found this fabric at PA Fabric Outlet in Lancaster, PA a few weeks ago, the bolt had been cut to within 1/2 yard from this error. I bought the whole mistake and turned it into a Jennifer Stern One-Seam Skirt, using as much of the dark olive as possible.

 

Can you see the bit of iridescence (and cat hair)? The fabric was lovely to work with – like a light weight linen. Almost every bolt of fashion fabric at PA Fabric Outlets is marked 100% polyester. A few bolts reported “rayon poly.” This is obviously not 100% poly. It’s lightweight – really light – but has a thick weave so that I decided it was unnecessary to line it, but perhaps I ought to have for durability. Ah well, I can always wear a slip.

If you haven’t taken the time to draft one of these one-seam skirts, do yourself a favor and set aside 30 minutes to do so. This is an elastic-waist skirt with deep side seam darts with additional darts front and back for shaping and works very well in knits. The darts take away the extra bulk around the elastic waist. Once drafted, you can have yourself a skirt in an hour, start to finish.

Since this skirt is woven rather than knit, I made quite a few changes.

First, I added an invisible zipper which is not necessary when making this in knits. I reinforced the seams with interfacing (you will see the interfacing in a photo below).

Second, I added side seams because I cut this too large. I was trying to accommodate the few pounds I’ve put on since drafting the original skirt. The skirt pattern has deep side darts so I simply tried the skirt on inside-out and pinched out the excess and sewed the seam about 1/2 wide.

Third, I had to change the waistline finishing from the elastic called for in the original pattern. I used elastic on the back waist and used a grosgrain ribbon to finish the front waistline (and remembered at the last minute to only sew the uppermost portion of the ribbon!). I opted for elastic on the back for comfort’s sake. I find a whole-ribbon waistline a bit restricting and terribly uncomfortable. The touch of elastic (I stretched it only an inch or so) makes the skirt so much more wearable.

Fourth, I added a kick pleat.

 

(Funny how photos show what the naked eye does not! See the iron imprints?)

Think a kick pleat is difficult? Think again. Look below at the simplicity of the shape needed for the kick pleat:

 

To make this pleat, I cut identical back seams, allowing 3 inches wide and originally cutting the pleat portion much longer than shown. You will need to measure where you want the top of your pleat as you don’t want it too high. [Mental note: make a mark on the pattern to show the cutting height of this pleat as I think it’s a perfect depth for me.] Sew your back seam from the zipper stop to the pleat. I then finished the pleat side seams by turning under a scant 1/4 inch and turning again so that I would have no raw edges. This fabric is very light weight, as I said, and this double turn did not add bulk. Otherwise, I’d probably turn once and zigzag the edges (at times like these, a serger would come in very handy!). Clip one side seam at the top of the pleat as shown, fold the pleat following the original center back seam line. Be sure to line this up precisely. I think some patterns have you baste this seam, but this fabric behaved so well, I found that unnecessary. Finally, sew the top of the pleat through all three layers, starting EXACTLY at the CB seam.

I pulled my thread to the back and knotted off.

I mitered the top (outside) pleat before hemming.

I like to use hem tape to finish my hems. I find it hems with less bulk and just seams like the thing to do. After seeing these photos, I think I need to tweak the under pleat – it appears just a wee tad too long, doesn’t it? But perhaps it’s the way I laid it out. I’ll aim for photos with me wearing it soon – today is cold and rainy and I’ve merely changed out of jammies to sweats this morning.

Making this skirt took longer than an hour, that’s for sure!

Oh – and am I pulling my hem stitches too tightly? Or is that simply the light’s reflection making the skirt appear puckered?  Or perhaps I need to press. I’ve learned to NOT press my hems but to allow them to hang as turned. I think I may have neglected to press the hem stitching.

I have a stack of light weight fabrics calling my name….especially this floral purchased at PA Fabric Outlet – marked 100% poly (of course) but it has a slight stretch so there’s something other than poly going on. I’m thinking wrap skirt or A-line skirt for my son’s college graduation. I love wrap skirts but sitting in them and maintaining modesty is a full-time endeavor. I’ll probably opt out of the wrap and think A-line for comfort.

 

What do you think about one of these jewel tones for a coordinating top? I made a muslin of a Burda pattern, but don’t love it so I’m back on the hunt for a pattern.

 

No Dart FBA for Kay

Pattern piece altered in 3 areas: Front neckline, bust, front center hemline.

I recommend using Pamela’s Patterns Perfect T for a starting point. Her pattern is made for us mature women – the shoulder is forward and sloped (I think those are the changes she uses for her basic patterns). Her techniques are basic and I’ve made a ton of these t’s with all sorts of necklines and sleeve length (including sleeveless).

For my former shape (since reduced) I added 1 inch at the neckline and center front hemline for this no-dart technique.

I will have to retrace the pattern and figure out how to fit my new shape (this is a SWAP goal). My former shape required a 1 3/4 inch spread when doing a traditional Y shape FBA. I think my new shape requires a 3/4 inch spread (not as reduced as I requested, evidently!). I had this surgery in June and I am still unable to wear a traditional b r a – I’m still wearing a sport’s b r a and will be for quite a few more months. Therefore, I’ve been told, I have a uniboob. Sigh. (Mothers!) And I’m quite self-conscious in posting photos. What is still healing are the underlying muscles – there is no way I can even wear a larger size band for 5 minutes. So I have no idea what my final size will be but I’m thinking a D cup based on my latest attempt at trying on b r a’s.

More info than you requested, but this is about making clothing to fit our unique shapes and the challenges thereof.

Thread Troubles and Green Fake Velvet Cardboard Vest

This keeps happening to me.

With different threads.

Different machines.

Sometimes near the needle. Sometimes near the tension knob.

And NOT when I’ve just started sewing with a newly threaded needle. Nope. I can be sewing along for many seams until this nest forms.

And ignore Nora’s dustiness. I polish her up and oil her well between uses. I absolutely love her…but her bobbin case gave me fits today! The bobbin thread kept coming out of the little slot. Think I ought to tighten it?

Advice?

Meanwhile, my Koos Coat is growing on me. :) I made a simple A-line skirt out of the red/grey to wear with it. It took me about an hour – no waistband, only elastic – I’ll have to show you what I did. Fast and easy and I think it will be very comfortable. And I made a Loes Hinse Bolero jacket today which still needs a final pressing. I’ll photo those in the next few days hopefully…tomorrow is errands and packing before the long drive to DC on Friday.

Here is the olive green fake velvet cardboard vest I made a couple of weeks ago. Really awful stuff. Don’t know what I was thinking.

Pocket (love these pockets) and button from my wonderful button stash. It’s not a large stash, necessarily, but I have the cutest buttons. I think my grandmother must have cut off every button before getting rid of a garment. I’ll post a photo of my glass jars one day.

Not one raw edge, she says smugly.

This was meant to be a jacket for my 2012 SWAP. However, just before inserting the sleeves, I realized I’d never wear a green fake velvet jacket that feels like cardboard. But I might wear it if it were a vest.

See? Comfy.Well, comfier than if it were a jacket. The hem is wonky, so that will need to be fixed.

And see this photo?

Well, lesson learned and filed away. When performing a sway back, I need to add the length BACK at the hem. Right? Who knew. I missed reading – or remembering – that part of the sway back instructions. So, I’m going to fix this whole hem, which won’t take me too long. I think I’ll bring this project to DC with me. I have JUST enough olive green thread left. I hope.

And totally not styled. I’ll wear with a nicer top and scarf and whatnot.

Doesn’t look too bad from the back except that I over compensated for the sway back thing on this square cardboard-like jacket.

But what do those wrinkles tell me? I already performed a sloping shoulder adjustment – think I need more? Or a broad back (which I did prior to my surgery but thought I wouldn’t need any longer. Maybe I do?)

And, yes, this means I need a substitute fabric for my SWAP. G Street anyone????

Yeah yeah. Hush with the spoiled dog thing. He NEEDED picked up. Doesn’t he always?