Friday, July 3, 2009

Long Purple Skirt Now Restyled


AFTER (I had forgotten how much this fabric wrinkles. I had JUST pressed it.)

In addition to shortening the skirt, I had to take it in from the back and side seams. Taking it in from the back was a chore because of the elastic back waist. It doesn't look 100%, but I will enjoy wearing it with an untucked top.

Thursday, July 2, 2009

June Top

I made this top: Vogue 8495, View A, using a white cotton I bought at G-Street. It has a wee stretch, which is so comfortable, so I used a very slight zig-zag stitch to accomodate the stretch. This technique worked very well, though I was skeptical at first.

I added an inch to the back and front width after making a muslin. I need to figure out how to choose the correct size pattern. It might be the correct thing to use the size I do (based on upper bust measurement) and add that extra inch. I don't know at this point. Adding the inch certainly made the neckline a tad too large.

I made an FBA using the original technique I learned. The bust dart is L.O.N.G at 6 1/2 inches from side seam to point. I have since found an alternative method of forming the FBA which I will use in a future project, which should cut down on the length.

I had to tweak the top of the bodice: the bust darts sat too low on my chest. I unstitched the basting at the yoke line and hitched up the front bodice about half an inch. It took away the pull across the bust and now the bust darts sit where they belong.

Also in my learning curve was the need to unpick the armholes. I had neglected to clip the curved seams and so the seams sat all wonky.

I used a stretch stitch to finish the seams which worked out very well. I also worked on my dart formation technique. I think I did fairly well. I cut off much of the seam allowance - it was very deep - then I finished it up to an inch or so from the point using the same stitch as I used for the seams.

Two Skirts

I made a blue floral skirt using Simplicity 2609 (View D).

The rayon I used was an experience! It would not hold its shape at all - either during cutting or layout. I probably should have used fusible interfacing on the elastic waist sections. Instead, I chose to underline it. The underlining helped, but the rayon was so stretchy that it puckered and sagged. It looked awful after final construction.

I finally cut the bottom edge of the underlining and loosely hand-stitched it to the horizontal seam to allow the fashion fabric to lay flat without puckering. It was much better, though not perfect.

I allowed the skirt to hang for a day before hemming. I'm glad I did because the stretch on the fabric became quite evident. Hemming such an uneven skirt was a chore. I have added this to my wish list:

I left the skirt long. This is one of those skirts that are soft, blow in the breeze and feels lovely while swishing. I would wear it tonight to a barbecue, but it is just a tad too cool today.

The other skirt I finished just last night. It is a pink paisley made in Simplicity 4881, view A.

I wish I could report that this was a straight forward skirt to make. Even though I measured, it was too tight in the waist, so I had to cut off the elastic waistband, cut off another inch from the top, and FINALLY was able to slip the skirt over my hips. I unpicked an inch of side seams and hand stitched them to form the little gusset (perhaps gusset isn't the correct term) to accommodate the shape of the elastic. It wasn't difficult, just not "quick-n-easy." I sewed a lining, which I attached only under the elastic, and only sewed the side part-way down the side seams to allow movement.

I love this skirt. It doesn't look like much, but it is soft and has just the right amount of movement in the A-line.

Oh, almost forgot: I sewed the side seams in french seams. I think that's my new favorite seam technique! So easy to accomplish an so tidy and neat on the inside.