Wednesday, March 23, 2011

G Street in Rockville in March

Photo heavy.


Not one thing caught my eye.

Nothing called my name.

Not one bolt needed attention, to be petted, to be cut.

The store seemed almost empty.


I bought basic lining (black and creme).

I picked up some buttons to match fabric from my collection.


C’est tout.


Disappointment aside, I wonder, is this is a reflection on my lack of creativity, a sign of things to come for G Street due to their buyers, or a reflection on the manufacturing industry?

Wednesday, March 2, 2011

March 2011 Jacket – The Winter White Wool

Vogue 7969 View B


(squinting into the sun)

The fabric was bought at G Street last Thanksgiving.

Wool with already fused interfacing


As you can see, interfacing was factory applied, making my task easier.


- FBA plus redirecting darts to point to my apex

- Broad back

- Petite

- Widened the sleeve but I think it is still a tad too tight.

- Altered hem line: shorter than the long view B but longer than the short view A

You and the mistakes and mis-starts first?

- I feel the shoulders are too droopy even after taking about 1 1/2 inches off the shoulder width. Ack! After reviewing this, I realize what I’m doing wrong. I am performing a broad back adjustment (cutting the armscyce and sliding it to accomodate my back) but neglecting to fold out the excess in the shoulders. I think I’ll try using a shoulder dart to accommodate that added width. This pattern had the shoulder dart, but I could have deepened and lengthened it.

- I used Ann Rowley’s method of wrapping the armscye seams with polyester batting – and it shows through (see the thick seam?). Should I pick it off?

- I have 3/8 inch shoulder pads – and they do help – but I think I need more – or I need to hike up those shoulders more.

- The armscye is too tight. The lining was painful to wear this afternoon so that I’ve just finished opening it up and inserting a fisheye gusset. It’s not lovely, but it gets the job done. Relatively. I’m still pondering the why-to-fore’s on this issue. Why is the lining so tight that it dug into my skin?

- I’m still performing the sway back too deeply.


- Finishing off the bagging is killing me! I tried Gigi’s method but look what I did – see that rectangular insert at the bottom – the one with the grain going the wrong way?


My other facing looks nicer. The directions called for the hong kong finish of the raw edge. Why can’t I figure out how to turn it under and have it sewn like everyone else?


- Wrinkles in the shoulders indicate I’m still needing help there – I think I do need to take more width off the shoulders.



- I was able to finish off the lining in the sleeves, sewing the lining to the hem of the sleeve, without much ado except that the lining was too long and I had to unpick it and cut the lining quite a bit shorter to prevent it from peeking out. Did I miss something in the cutting?

- I hand-picked the darts and I like the subtle touch. 


Soooo – I’ll wear it. I don’t think the issues are glaring to non-sewists. I feel I’ve learned a TON! But after viewing the photos, I am a bit discouraged because I had made 2 muslins and felt I had the jacket fit near “perfect.” I don’t think it looks nearly as good as I had originally thought. I have many things in the queue awaiting the needle but I’m going to have to fight despair. I think I’ll clean the sewing room and sleep in it. Perhaps if I fix the shoulders……….