Vogue 7969 View B
(squinting into the sun)
The fabric was bought at G Street last Thanksgiving.
As you can see, interfacing was factory applied, making my task easier.
- FBA plus redirecting darts to point to my apex
- Broad back
- Widened the sleeve but I think it is still a tad too tight.
- Altered hem line: shorter than the long view B but longer than the short view A
You and the mistakes and mis-starts first?
- I feel the shoulders are too droopy even after taking about 1 1/2 inches off the shoulder width. Ack! After reviewing this, I realize what I’m doing wrong. I am performing a broad back adjustment (cutting the armscyce and sliding it to accomodate my back) but neglecting to fold out the excess in the shoulders. I think I’ll try using a shoulder dart to accommodate that added width. This pattern had the shoulder dart, but I could have deepened and lengthened it.
- I used Ann Rowley’s method of wrapping the armscye seams with polyester batting – and it shows through (see the thick seam?). Should I pick it off?
- I have 3/8 inch shoulder pads – and they do help – but I think I need more – or I need to hike up those shoulders more.
- The armscye is too tight. The lining was painful to wear this afternoon so that I’ve just finished opening it up and inserting a fisheye gusset. It’s not lovely, but it gets the job done. Relatively. I’m still pondering the why-to-fore’s on this issue. Why is the lining so tight that it dug into my skin?
- I’m still performing the sway back too deeply.
- Finishing off the bagging is killing me! I tried Gigi’s method but look what I did – see that rectangular insert at the bottom – the one with the grain going the wrong way?
My other facing looks nicer. The directions called for the hong kong finish of the raw edge. Why can’t I figure out how to turn it under and have it sewn like everyone else?
- Wrinkles in the shoulders indicate I’m still needing help there – I think I do need to take more width off the shoulders.
- I was able to finish off the lining in the sleeves, sewing the lining to the hem of the sleeve, without much ado except that the lining was too long and I had to unpick it and cut the lining quite a bit shorter to prevent it from peeking out. Did I miss something in the cutting?
- I hand-picked the darts and I like the subtle touch.
Soooo – I’ll wear it. I don’t think the issues are glaring to non-sewists. I feel I’ve learned a TON! But after viewing the photos, I am a bit discouraged because I had made 2 muslins and felt I had the jacket fit near “perfect.” I don’t think it looks nearly as good as I had originally thought. I have many things in the queue awaiting the needle but I’m going to have to fight despair. I think I’ll clean the sewing room and sleep in it. Perhaps if I fix the shoulders……….