Wednesday, March 2, 2011

March 2011 Jacket – The Winter White Wool

Vogue 7969 View B


(squinting into the sun)

The fabric was bought at G Street last Thanksgiving.

Wool with already fused interfacing


As you can see, interfacing was factory applied, making my task easier.


- FBA plus redirecting darts to point to my apex

- Broad back

- Petite

- Widened the sleeve but I think it is still a tad too tight.

- Altered hem line: shorter than the long view B but longer than the short view A

You and the mistakes and mis-starts first?

- I feel the shoulders are too droopy even after taking about 1 1/2 inches off the shoulder width. Ack! After reviewing this, I realize what I’m doing wrong. I am performing a broad back adjustment (cutting the armscyce and sliding it to accomodate my back) but neglecting to fold out the excess in the shoulders. I think I’ll try using a shoulder dart to accommodate that added width. This pattern had the shoulder dart, but I could have deepened and lengthened it.

- I used Ann Rowley’s method of wrapping the armscye seams with polyester batting – and it shows through (see the thick seam?). Should I pick it off?

- I have 3/8 inch shoulder pads – and they do help – but I think I need more – or I need to hike up those shoulders more.

- The armscye is too tight. The lining was painful to wear this afternoon so that I’ve just finished opening it up and inserting a fisheye gusset. It’s not lovely, but it gets the job done. Relatively. I’m still pondering the why-to-fore’s on this issue. Why is the lining so tight that it dug into my skin?

- I’m still performing the sway back too deeply.


- Finishing off the bagging is killing me! I tried Gigi’s method but look what I did – see that rectangular insert at the bottom – the one with the grain going the wrong way?


My other facing looks nicer. The directions called for the hong kong finish of the raw edge. Why can’t I figure out how to turn it under and have it sewn like everyone else?


- Wrinkles in the shoulders indicate I’m still needing help there – I think I do need to take more width off the shoulders.



- I was able to finish off the lining in the sleeves, sewing the lining to the hem of the sleeve, without much ado except that the lining was too long and I had to unpick it and cut the lining quite a bit shorter to prevent it from peeking out. Did I miss something in the cutting?

- I hand-picked the darts and I like the subtle touch. 


Soooo – I’ll wear it. I don’t think the issues are glaring to non-sewists. I feel I’ve learned a TON! But after viewing the photos, I am a bit discouraged because I had made 2 muslins and felt I had the jacket fit near “perfect.” I don’t think it looks nearly as good as I had originally thought. I have many things in the queue awaiting the needle but I’m going to have to fight despair. I think I’ll clean the sewing room and sleep in it. Perhaps if I fix the shoulders……….


The Hojnackes said...

Those hand picked darts are so pretty!

Ann said...

Great work on this and it seems like it was a learning curve. I am making the same on out of faux leather. Have to hem the sleeves next then do the lining.
My big problem - not having or finding a nice 12" zipper. I put in one that is 14" leaving me with a narrow hem. Not happy about that.

AnnRowley said...

I think that a thicker shoulder pad may solve some of your shoulder problems. Try slipping another thin pad in while you are wearing the jacket - without unpicking anything - and see if it helps.
I see you did the sleve wrap and are concerned about it showing. I suspect it may be a bit wide; it shouldn't be any more than 1/2" finished. Don't undo it! Just make it narrower next time...

Remnant said...

Thanks for the thoughts.

Laura - thanks for finding the gem and commenting on it. :) You made me chuckle.

Ann, I could not find a 12 inch zip, either. I recall seeing something about picking out the zip stops, picking out zipper teeth, and reinstalling the stops in order to shorten a too-long zip. Since my fabric is delicate, I decided a zip would be too much.

AnnR: I think you are right. I won't unpick - but maybe I'll just run a sharp scissor under the batting and remove it. I'll try the double shoulder pad to see if that give those shoulders some lift. I think, too, that I should not petite the pattern across the chest in a horizontal line, but in a wedge: take out the width at center front but not at the armscye.

Belinda said...

Hi there, I think you did a great job. Stop beating yourself up. I'm going through a similar process myself. I know I'm not going to like or even wear the current jacket I'm making, but I'll finish it just for the learning process. We learn a lot from each garment we make. And I agree with Ann, a larger shoulder pad will greatly help. Chin up!

Anonymous said...

Nice job on this - it looks great! I just love winter white. It strikes me as so utterly sophisticated.

Gail said...

the problems aren't that noticeable from the pictures. Love winter white - it is sophistocated.