Friday, March 5, 2010

White Tie Top

New Look 6808, View E (the brown on the top, right) -

I love this linen-like fabric. It has a fine hand and feels lovely. I wanted to make something with this that would serve me well this spring and summer.

I made one muslin. Changes I made:
-Broad back adjustment, one inch on the pattern piece (two inches total)
-Petited the upper front bodice about 3/4 inch
-Changed the direction of the dart (I'm liking french darts)
-FBA 1 3/4 inch spread
-Changed the location of both front and back fish eye darts - I think I moved them outward an inch or two, front and back
-Shortened the back fish eye darts about 1.5 inches (to accommodate the broad back adjustment)

Mistakes I made:
- I followed instructions for applying the front and back facings rather than the collar (duh moment!). I debated leaving the shirt as it was and adding beading to the neckline - but decided I could do that in a different fabric because I really wanted the broad collar on this top. So last night I spent over an hour very carefully unpicking the tiny stitches.

Tweaks to the pattern:
- Today I placed the collar but I did not follow pattern instructions. They seemed bulky - and included adding the unpicked facings. I simply lined up the seam edges, sewed my 5/8 inch seam allowance and flipped the collar to the right side. This left raw edges under the collar - which I finished off with a hong-kong binding due to the unraveling tendency of the fabric. I think the hong-kong finishing, even though using a very fine silk, adds a bit too much bulk under the collar. But I don't think it would be noticeable to the average layperson when I wear it.

-I finished off the armholes with self-fabric bias strips. I could have turned under the armhole, but I needed the extra width on the sleeves to hide my bra straps - which sit wide on my shoulders.

The top is a bit loose, I oped to NOT insert a side zipper because there is a wee bit of stretch in the fabric. I also don't mind the wee bit extra width because this is designed to be worn in warm/hot weather and the extra ease will be welcome on hot days.

I think this is a versatile top which will get much use.

The only thing is difficult to find something to wear over a wide-collared top. My San Diego jacket does not look good with this. Perhaps a simple RTW cardigan will fit under the collar. I'll have to try that tomorrow.

I plan to make an the same top with the same scooped neckline, but without the wide collar and bow. I hope to embellish it with beads. I think I'll add a back zip for that top to make it a bit more fitted...unless I decide to use a knit, in which case I'll grade down the side seams and deepen the darts. I have several fabric choices on hand.

ETA: The markings were done with thread tracing - not an easy feat due to four fish eye darts and the bust darts. I was terrified to add chalk or marker to this fabric in fear that it would never wash out. I was pleasantly surprised with how well the thread tracing worked at the pinning and sewing stages - but the tracing stage was mind-boggling!

This makes garment number 4 in my 6-pack wee spring swap.


RuthieK said...

Very nice!

K-Sue said...

This looks good. I think it will serve you well this summer with skirts, jeans, slacks, shorts - very practical.

I used to have a white knit top, short sleeve, but with a similar collar treatment. I wore it for 13 years.

Remnant said...

Thanks, Ruthie!

13 YEARS? K-Sue? Wow! That's truly amazing. I do think I'll be wearing this top frequently! But 13 years? Doubt that!

sdBev said...


I'm so glad to see your version! I just bought this pattern for myself. Although I don't have the same fitting challenges as you do, I did read with interest your evaluation and changes. Thanks so much for sharing.