Tricky FBA for the Lekala Top

Tricky seams near the bust line.

The pattern is amazingly accurate and went together like a dream. Of course I pinned it wrong the first time. Luckily I unfolded it along the pin line to see the effect and discovered my mistake. These Lekala patterns have no photos in the instructions - and the English translations leave much to be desired.

Instruction example from this pattern:
2. Sew the sides of the shelf to the central part of the allowances zautyuzhit on flank and frayed. Along the upper edge of the central part of the plateau to lay a line with a slightly prolonged stitches and gather the assembly.

Since the knit I used was quite thin and had lots of stretch, plus the pattern has those gathers at the neckline, I took a chance and made the pattern without adding an FBA.

Well, no, not quite, actually. I did add an FBA - I added a curved allowance - but to the part below the intersected seam at the side seam. Quite too low, so I simply cut it off during construction. I originally thought the intersecting seam hit higher under the arm. Not so.

So here's the question: do I add an FBA under the arm, on side seam of the wedge piece? Or do I add the FBA at the diagonal seam?

Or a should I add the FBA to both sides of the front wedge: under the arm plus at the diagonal seam, thereby sharing the burden of the FBA in two places?

The problem with fiddling with that front diagonal seam is that the pieces are beautiful. They fit so wonderfully - I'd hate to mess with that.

But then again, perhaps I could treat the pieces as a princess seam, perform a slash and spread to the wedge shaped piece (spread it about 1 inch), then slash the front piece all the way across and spread it 1 inch).

Talking about the front bodice piece, Lekala patterns print a large, flat front bodice piece. I'd rather have a piece half the size which I can place on the fold, so once printed, I folded the piece in half. I found it much easier to manage than the large multi- pieced, taped sheets of paper. I imagine there will be times when a full front bodice pattern piece will come in handy - as in when using a fabric with large motifs. Meanwhile, I'll stick to "place-on-fold" sized pattern pieces.



I would like to make this up in a dress next spring - complete with silk collar (but omit the bow)....if I can figure out how to add an FBA.