Wednesday, December 7, 2011

Cooking the Koos Coat



I received a lovely note from a dear gal who doesn’t like to make herself known publicly on the blogs. She is in the process of making the Koos coat with a sewing buddy (how fun to have a sewing buddy!) and offered some welcome advice.


In response to my inquiry regarding Koos’ method of construction, she pointed me to the book Koos Couture and Collage by Linda Chang Teufel, available for $15 on Linda’s rwebpage, Dragon Threads. Before constructing the coat, I’m going to read this book, so sewing will have to wait. I’m not convinced flat felled seams are necessary, especially at the shoulders. There has to be a better way.


My pattern finally arrived and I’ve given it a once over. I’m just a tad intimidated. :) I think I’ll make a one-layer, one-color coat to start. In other words, I’ll follow the example of my anonymous friend and make a coat from the lining. I have a couple of lengths in just the right weight and length.

PC072278  PC072279

That blue is a bit bright but I can imagine wearing with black jeans.

Below is a length of wool – it’s a bit meh. I’ve never loved it. The real color is a bit more bright – with yellow tone. I imagine it will be a dream to sew with.



The below fabrics are the ones I’m mulling over for the layered coat.


I found the red/grey just last week at Hancock’s on 40% off sale. It is quite ravely and will be a nightmare, I’m sure! I’m thinking of interfacing with a light weight knit interfacing to make it easier to handle.


Next in the stack is this beautiful piece of  Merino wool with a subtle tan stripe.


I realize I have a problem with each of the other fabrics – they are either too light weight or have stretch.

The below piece has black/white threads, forming a perfectly neutral grey. The problem is the weight. I’d have to interface with a heavy interfacing, changing the original hand a bit. I don’t know if that works or if there would be too much of a difference in heft to make it work with the red/grey.


This piece I LOVE.


But it stretches.


Bah! Would interfacing and/or underlining work?

The next one – click on it to increase the size so you can see the texture – is wonderful. But light. I could use it for the binding.


Or I could use this light weight stripe for the binding, which is the direction I’m leaning.


Once again, a lovely stack of possibilities but with issues.


Another idea is to add another bit of color.


The coral/red actually blends quite nice in real life – if I don’t use them directly next to each other. The color below is more true. I only have a yard of this Shetland wool which came to me in a Fabric Mart bundle.


Or, thinking, ditch the red/grey bulky fabric entirely and go with the lighter weights.

Meanwhile, while I await the arrival of the Koos book, I think I’ll pull out another coat project. In the blue. That blue is speaking to me today.


Vogue 2988. Perhaps.


Or Kwik Sew 3095  which I’ve chosen for my SWAP. I think this is a sleeper pattern. I have been drawn to this pattern for quite some time. I could start the fitting process today.


Do you ever feel like flipping a coin to help decide what to do????

1 comment:

Audrey said...

I highly recommend the Koos book. It is in my sewing book library and it inspires me every time I read it. using the book, I made some fabric collage panels a la Koos, but could not bring myself to cut them up and use them in a garment. I also bought the red/gray/black fabric at Hancocks recently. I like how it adds zip and color to your jacket fabric selection.